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Types Of Tropical Fish For Building A Tropical Fish Aquarium

June 2nd, 2008 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

If you are looking for a way to set up a tropical fish in your home then there are certain things you must know before you start collecting the items needed.

Let’s look at the tropical fish from a different perspective. The tropical fish are primarily made to live in the sea water, but we are looking for a way to make them live in a small tank. No matter what you do an tank can never be replaced with real life sea life. I an we can try our best to rebuild the kind of environment that the tropical fish will enjoy, but certainly has limitations.

That is why selecting the exact types of tropical fish will help you create a healthy in no time at all. Not all tropical fish can survive in the small tank. Also there are certain species that will never live together and cam cause danger to lives of each other.

That is why the best types of tropical fish that you can use in your home are.

1) Blue Gourami or 3 Spot Gourami
2) The Black Moor Goldfish
3) The Butterfly Loach

These 3 types of tropical fish are best as pet tropical fish that you can have in a home . Actually there are hundreds of types of tropical fish with great amount of colors that can easily add to the beauty of you tropical fish , but as I said they must be willing to adjust themselves to the kind of environment you will be creating in a small .

Types of tropical fish varies with not just colors, but the kind of food they eat and types of tropical fish they will go with. Amongst the many types of tropical fish such as Rainbows, Danios, Barbs, the butterfly loach is the one that can go very well with any kind of other type of fish and helps to keep the tank clean too.

I hope this article was informative.

Copyright Shrinivas Vaidya

Want to learn about tropical-fish--types.blogspot.com/ tropical fish ? Visit my blog at tropical-fish--types.blogspot.com tropical-fish--types.blogspot.com to learn the insider secrets to setting up your own stunning tropical fish , quickly and easily.

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Picking The Perfect Goldfish Aquarium

June 1st, 2008 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Keeping a is a great way for children and adults alike to experience these beautiful fish. However, are not a care free pet and the tank will require cleaning and water changes.

When considering what kind of an you want for your , you want to think carefully because in this case bigger really is better. While 1 can exist in a bowl, it’s better to get at least a 10 gallon especially if you plan on having more than one fish.

When selecting an , the surface area is of utmost importance. This is the area at the top of the tank where the water meets the air. It’s important because this is how oxygen gets into the water and need well oxygenated water. Therefore, it’s preferable to have a tank that is short and long as to one that is tall and thin. One way to tell if you have enough surface area is to figure 30 square inches for each inch of fish.

You will also want to be sure to get a good filtrations system. Either an under gravel system or one that hangs on the back of the tank and filters the water by sucking it up through a tube is fine (both are even better!). You also might want a good heater so you can be sure the tank temperature does not fluctuate too much as well as adequate lighting that shows off the beauty of your .

You’ll need to do partial water changes and clean your on a regular basis or your fish won’t be living very long. Goldfish can be quite messy and the excess food as well as the fish waste causes the water to become polluted. You need to change out about 25% of the water every month or so to keep a healthy environment for your fish.

When cleaning your you will not need to take everything out and empty the entire tank. Just take any of the decorations out and clean them one by one and then scrub the tank with an algae scrubber. Remove 25% of the water and then replace it with water that is the same temperature as that in the tank and which has been treated to remove chlorine and other harmful substances.

A can be a beautiful show piece in your home and there are many different types of you can buy to add interest to it. Adding some plants and decorations can also help with antithetic appeal but don’t go overboard as your fish still need room to roam around!

Lee Dobbins writes for

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Aquarium Medications, Treatments, and How They Work

May 12th, 2008 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

This article (which will continue to grow with information) is informational about different (and pond) treatments. I give the gram negative or gram positive applications where they apply. Many antibiotics and chemical treatments are explained.

When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other ), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display .
Sponge filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications. Also not that silicone in the will absorb malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate.
Proper calcium levels are important, as calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be diffficult or impossible. The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorbtion.

TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

USE: Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris. Also useful for damaged fins caused by fin nipping. An old standby that is still usefull and can be used in combination with Malachite Green or Acriflavin (do not combine with copper sulfate)
DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.

TETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:

USE: Treatment of bacterial infections, both gram-positive and gram-negative infections such as fin and tail rot (split, ragged and deteriorating fin and/or tail), Popeye (protruding eyes, may be cloudy or hazy), gill disease (swollen, discolored gills, gasping for air and a decrease in activity) and secondary infections. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). Tetracycline Hydrochloride mode of action is as a protein synthesis inhibitor via an aminoacyl-tRNA binding mechanism to the 30S subunit. Mode of resistance is the loss of cell wall permeability. Note, Teracycline can lower red blood cell count, because of this I would not use with injured fish.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons of water. Every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. This product will not work in water with a ph above 7.5- NOT FOR MARINE USE!

QUININE SUFATE:

USE: Resistant strains of Ich (especially on scale less fish). Protozoan, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Also good for resistant strains of Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole.
DOSAGE : 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Once a day for 4-5 days. Do a 25% water change before each treatment.

OXYTETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:
USE: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia and mouth fungus.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. This antibiotic is best used mixed in with food, especially if your ph is above 8.0..

NITROFURAZONE:

USE: Bactericidal for many gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of Aeromonas, Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi.
Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

NEOMYCIN SULFATE:
USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Red spots or streaks on body or fins of fish.) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums.
DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.

METRONIDAZOLE:

USE: Hole in the head disease (hexamita), chilodonella, salt water ich, bloat.
DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

KANAMYCIN SULFATE;

USE: It is used to treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus). Also useful for Pseudomonas-Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage,fins and tail are eaten away, in severe cases, down to the body (can be combined with Neomycin for this). Kanamycin can be effective for whirling disease and dropsey.
Kanamycin sulfate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.

DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 48 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

ERYTHROMYCIN:

USE: Fin and tail rot, kidney disease, pop eye. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. Black Molly disease.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

TRICHLORFON (Dylox)
Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate:

Trichlorfon is an Organophosphate and degrades rapidly (approximately 99% of applied degraded in 2 hours) in alkaline pond water (pH 8.5) at room temperature. but remains stable in the same pond water held under acidic (pH 5.0) conditions for 2 hours.
Trichlorfon is very highly toxic to invertebrates.
DO NOT USE ON FISH THAT ARE CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE such as: Silver Dollars, Rays, Bala Sharks, Arowanas, Tinfoil Barbs, Hemiodus, Piranha, Most Silver Scaled Fish, Marine sharks, Lion Fish.
See methylene blue if Dylox treatment is not available or viable

USE: Trichlorfon is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches
CLOUT contains Trichlorfon (Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate), as well as; 4-[P-(dimethylamino)-O-phenylbenzylidene]-2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-xylidene dimethylammonium chloride, 1,2,dimethyl-5-nitroimidazole
DOSAGE: There is no recommended dosage (other than Freshwater fish acute toxicity= 1.6-180 ppm), refer to manufacturers directions for all products containing Trichlorfon.
Treat again in 14 days to kill new hatchings of Anchor worms.

ISONIAZID 300 mg:
USE: Treatment for tuberculosis in susceptible fish such as Discus. Can be combined with kanamycin.
DOSAGE: 1 tablet per 20 gallons, every other day for 14- 30 days

METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :

USE: Fungus on eggs, Ich, fungus and some bacteria. Effective in gill disease. Transports oxygen. Some protozoa, sliminess of the skin and oodinium. Great for use as a 30 minute dip at double dose.
Very effective when used as a dip for topical treatment of , bacterial, and fungal infections. When dylox is not available, this can a useful treatment for anchor worm (especially in ); first carefully remove the anchor worm with tweezers, then dip the affected fish in Methylene blue. When used with a UV sterilizer to kill the swimming stage of the female anchor worm (the female is the parasite), this can be an effective treatment. (Tank can also be treated with Malachite green or malachite green combination during this time for improved effectiveness).
Also useful as a dip for ammonia and nitrite poisoning.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display .

ACRIFLAVIN 3.84% solution:
USE: For treatment of bacterial infections such as mouth fungus, salt water Ich, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia, skin , oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3.84% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with copper sulfate and malachite green.

MALACHITE GREEN;

USE: For treatment and control of various external of freshwater and marine fishes. When used as directed the medication will control or prevent the following common protozoan :
*Ichthyophthinus (freshwater Ich) exhibited as fine “salt like” white spots that usually first appear on the fins.
*Costia (Ichthyobodo). Not to be confused with ich, is a parasite that can live dormant on healthy fish (primarily their gills), then under certain conditions (poor water conditions, stress, ECT), reproduce rapidly. Symptoms of an outbreak include Heavy and labored “breathing” flashing and rubbing, skin cloudiness caused by excess mucus.
*Chilodonella, *Ambiphyra, *Cryptocaryon (marine Ich), *Epistylis, *Oodinium and Trichodina, *Plistophora (best combined with formalin at 1/2 strength)
Malachite Green is also effective against common external fungal infections of fishes and eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums.
Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph.
Can be combined with Formalin or Acriflavin.

FORMALIN (3% formaldehyde):

USE: For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine fishes. Formalin will control or help prevent diseases of fishes caused by the following disease organisms: Ichthyophthirius (freshwater “ich”), Costia, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon (marine “ich”), Epistylis, Oodinium, Amyloodinium, and Trichodina.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

COPPER SULFATE:

USE: For treatment freshwater and marine ich, Oodinium, external , fungus and even algae. Very effective when used properly and carefully.
DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

ORGANIC MEDICATIONS:
There are three organic or “homeopathic” treatments that I have used;

PIMENTA EXTRACT (PIMAFIX);

USE: Pimenta extract is effective for a broad range of bacterial and fungal diseases that typically afflict fish and other aquatic animals. Fish diseases that may be treated in accordance with this include bacterial fish diseases, such as fin and tail rot, mouth fungus (often caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnaris); fungal fish diseases (such as those caused by microorganisms of the genera Saprolegnia and Achyle) and the like.

DOSAGE: Refer to Pimafix instructions

USNEA LICHEN;

USE; Usnea is a lichen of the family Parmeliaceae that grows in damp temperate woodlands.
I have found it effective for bacterial, fungal and even such ich. This lichen is boiled like a tea then added to the .

DOSAGE: None established yet. I boil one small sprig and add this to every 10-20 gallons of water every day until cure is effective 2 days

MELALUCA TEA (MELAFIX):

USE: Repairs damaged fins, ulcers, and open wounds.
Promotes re growth of damaged tissue and fins.

DOSAGE: Refer to Melafix instructions

By Carl Strohmeyer

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Quality Fish Food; What Ingredients Are Needed For Proper Fish Nutrition, Growth And Health

April 14th, 2008 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

INTRODUCTION:

There is a lot of confusion about what constitutes a quality flake food (or pellet).
The aquarist needs to understand that there are similarities and differences between fish and other animals. For example; Fish get most of their energy needs from fat, but in humans carbohydrates are a better source. Another point is amino acids (the building blocks of proteins); almost all animals have different amino acid needs. For example; Cats need Taurine in there diet or they can suffer heart problems.

Then there is the speed of digestion, some fish such as tend to have slower digestive tracts (I like to compare it to a horse, but there are major differences such as the stomach). But the similarity is that if too high a protein or the wrong protein diet is fed, the horse may colic, and in they will build up intestinal gas and infections including swim bladder or dropsy will ensue. The wrong amino acids in any fish will lead to pollution (extra ammonia) and renal failure.

Another note about fish food is what carnivores need. Carnivorous fish often consume whole animals including intestinal contents, which often include plant material. A quality fish food for carnivores must include vegetable matter such as spirulina.

HERE ARE A FEW BUILDING BLOCK INGREDIENTS:

AMINO ACIDS:

An amino acid is any molecule that contains both amines (organic compounds that contain nitrogen as the key atom. Structurally amines resemble ammonia) and Carboxylic acids (organic acids characterized by the presence of a carboxyl group). Amino acids are used as the basic components of proteins.

The net protein utilization is profoundly affected by the limiting amino acid content or protein quality (the essential amino acid found in the smallest quantity in the foodstuff), and somewhat affected by salvage of essential amino acids in the body. It is therefore a good idea to mix foodstuffs that have different weaknesses in their essential amino acid distributions. This limits the loss of nitrogen through deamination and increases overall net protein utilization. Eggs (whether fish or even chicken) have the highest protein quality of any source. Which makes hard boiled egg crumbles an excellent food source for fry.

DL-methionine is an essential amino acid for producing the “Lionhead” feature in . High levels of methionine can be found in the vegetable proteins of spinach, green peas, and garlic. DL-methionine can also be found in fish meal.

Bottom line; Not all protein sources are equal. An analogy used at a pet food seminar I attended was this: You can achieve the protein analysis on many pet foods with a used pair of leather shoes, but leather shoes contain little usable proteins.

FATS:

Molecular compounds that are generally soluble in organic solvents and largely insoluble in water. Fats are important for insulating body organs against shock, maintaining body temperature, and promoting healthy cell function. They also serve as energy stores for the body. Fats are broken down in the body to release glycerol and free fatty acids. The glycerol can be converted to glucose by the liver and thus used as a source of energy. The fatty acids are the main source of energy in fish, especially for many tissues, such as heart and skeletal muscle. Another important function for fats are for vitamin absorption. Vitamins A, D, E, and K are fat-soluble, meaning they can only be digested, absorbed, and transported in conjunction with fats.

CARBOHYDRATES:

Molecular substances which include the sugars, starches, gums and celluloses. The common attributes of carbohydrates are that they contain only the elements carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, and that their combustion will yield carbon dioxide plus one or more molecules of Water.
Most of the carbohydrates that enter the diet of fish are of plant origin. Carnivorous fish such as groupers, therefore, deal with little carbohydrate. Indeed, experiments have shown that these species are ill-equipped to handle significant quantities of raw carbohydrate, in their diets. The ability of fish to digest carbohydrates depends on their ability to elaborate amylase. All species of fish have been shown to secrete at least some amylase. It has also been demonstrated that activity of this enzyme was greatest in herbivores.

Carbohydrates are not a superior energy source for fish over protein or fat although digestible carbohydrates do spare protein for tissue building. Also, unlike in mammals, glycogen is not a significant storage depot of energy in fish. The more efficient metabolism of amino acids over carbohydrates (glucose) for energy could be due to the ability of fish to excrete nitrogenous waste as ammonia from their gills without the high cost of energy in converting the waste to urea.

FISH FOOD SOURCES:

FISH MEAL:

Fish meal has been widely used as a protein source for many years for fish. Two basic types of fish meal are produced; (1) produced from fishery waste (salmon, tuna, etc.) that are associated with the processing of various edible human fishery products and (2) When specific fish (herring, menhaden, pollack, etc.) are harvested just for the purpose to produce fish meal. The fish can be dried directly drying or cooking prior to drying and oil extracted. In addition to being a by-product of human fish production it is also a by-product associated with fish oil production, which is where most commercial fish food obtain fish meal from.

Fish meal can be classified as two basic types; (1) fishery waste associated with the processing of fish for human consumption, again the primary source. (2) Fish that are only used for the production of fish meal. This is the best source, listed on ingredients as “Whole Fish Meal” or “White Fish Meal”.

SHRIMP MEAL:

Shrimp meal can be made from either cull shrimp that are being processed before freezing or from whole shrimp that is not of suitable quality for human consumption. The material to be made into shrimp meal is dried (sun or using a dryer) and then ground. Shrimp meal has been used in trout and salmon diets as a source of pigments to impart the desirable color in the tissues.
Shrimp meal has been found to be an acceptable supplemental protein source for fish, but inferior to whole fish meal.

SQUID MEAL:

Squid Meal is made from squid viscera portions from cannery plants including egg and testis.
Squid Meal is high digestibility of protein source, which provides a full range of amino acids for fish. It provides various kinds of vitamins and minerals and also 1.0-1.5% of cholesterol that is suitable for fish fry and young fish.

BRINE SHRIMP:

Just over a centimeter in size, the adult brine shrimp (Artemia) is a common food source for fish. They can be purchased at many Pet Store as adults, Freeze dried or even eggs. The eggs look like a powdery brown substance but in reality the substance is thousands of cysts—eggs surrounded by protective cases. When added to water, these cysts will hatch into shrimp nauplii within a few hours.

As a food source brine shrimp are relatively limited (mostly because of their high water content). They are a good source of carotene for color and act as a natural laxative in fish digestive systems. The proteins them do supply are of high quality. Depending on the source they also can supply vegetable matter due to their consumption of algae.

SOYBEAN MEAL:

Use of soybean products in the aquaculture industry have become the focus of protein substitution in fish food around the world. The high protein level makes it a key ingredient for aquaculture feeds. Soybean meal is considerably less expensive than traditionally used marine animal meals. The limiting amino acid content of soybean meal is high, but not on the level of Whole fish meal and especially egg.

SPIRULINA:

Spirulina is a blue-green plant plankton rich in raw protein and seven major vitamins: A1, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E. It naturally contains beta-carotene, color enhancing pigments, and whole range of minerals. In addition, it contains all essential fatty acids and eight amino acids required for complete nutrition. Spirulina is different from other algae and is similar to bacteria in many ways, occupying a niche between plants and bacteria. Spirulina is similar to cyanobacteria in structure (spiral shape, unlike true plant plankton), which can be toxic. Spirulina Blue- Green algae are recognized by the body (fish in particular) as a bacterium, causing an increase in antibodies, which in turn increases disease resistance. Spirulina is also high in usable or digestible amino acids.
Spirulina is probably one of the best fish food ingredients available, including for carnivores.

WHOLE WHEAT:

Carbohydrates as explained earlier are not the best source of energy in fish, but still can be useful, especially when whole wheat is used. One reason is for roughage, especially in and koi, but also for other fish for the wheat-germ found in whole wheat is a natural source of vitamin E, an important vitamin to promote healthy growth and fish color.

SUMMARY:

Compare TetraMin to some of the facts I have explained, then compare foods such as americanaquariumproducts.com/HBH.html” target=”_blank HBH Tropical and Marine Flake; Spirulina One Flake; Hikari and Sanyu Foods, such as Sanyu Betta Gold.
The difference is quite clear for long term growth and health.

By Carl Strohmeyer

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History of Koifish

April 9th, 2008 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

The word ‘Koi’ comes from Japan, but Koi fish originated from China. The koi word means carp, the exact term is the Cyprinus carpio. You probably heard that word: Nishikigoi, this is a more specific term for colorful carp.
Koi has a lot of color varieties and they are related to . Koi caring and breeding is very simple.

Koi keeping become popular in the 19th century. Farmers working the rice fields noticed that some colored carp, captured them, and raised them. By the 20th century, a number of color patterns had been established. Niigata Koi were exhibited in an exposition in Tokyo in 1914. After that the hobby of keeping Koi spread worldwide. Koi are now commonly sold in most of the pet stores.

You can differentiate the varieties by color and pattern. Koi pond have many different colors: white, black, red, yellow, blue, and cream. The variations are limitless, breeders determined different categories. The most popular category is Gosanke.

Some example from the koi varieties:

Kohaku: a white-skinned Koi, with a red pattern
Taisho Sanshoku (Sanke): a white-skinned Koi with a red and black pattern
Showa Sanshoku (Showa): a black-skinned Koi with a red and white pattern
Bekko: a white, red, or yellow-skinned Koi with a black pattern
Ghost koi: “Hybrid” of Ogon and wild carp. Not Nishikigoi.
Butterfly koi: Long-finned version of all others. Not Nishikigoi.

Kois live in the wild in every continent except Antarctica. Some places in the world Koi keeping is illegal, and some other places people tried to eradicate them. Koi increase the turbidity of the water and it can cause damage to the environment.

This beautiful fish has place in the world and a lot of people has passion for these ponds.

You can find some additional information on Koi Fish at
koifish.mybebo.net koi fish picture site.

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