Human beings are bound by certain social rules and etiquettes. Dogs are too, however, their rules are entirely different from our rules. For example, it is rare that one person meets another person and within seconds begins a violent fight. This behavior, however, is very common with our canine friends. Introducing two dogs in public is an art and an exercise in training and control. You must be prepared if you are going to avoid not only dog fights, but if you are to steer clear of dog illnesses and other problems when introducing two dogs.

When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is ‘assume the worst’. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be correct a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn’t be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The short answer is, I don’t. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

The next assumption I typically make is ‘assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs’. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are eager to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, “Oh, he’s fine with other dogs,” or, “It’s ok, he’s friendly.” Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a beautiful Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, “He’s friendly!” following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client’s dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can’t trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.

Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don’t think so. In doing this I am almost guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, “But what about socialization? Shouldn’t my dog learn to get along with other dogs?” The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.

I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn’t I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two begins to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the ‘sit’ command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then asked to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Good, let’s keep going. Now I put my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven’t come in contact with each other. At this point, however, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is important to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is important to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.

As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.

Author Ty Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to

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Tags: airedale terrier, dog training, heel

When my daughter asked for a bunny for her birthday, I got a mental image of a hutch in the back yard. Wrong! Backyard bunnies are coming into the house, to the delight of families all over. In fact, house rabbits are quickly climbing the list of America’s most popular pets.

It’s easy to see why. Bunnies are quiet, clean, don’t bark, don’t bite (unless they have a good reason to), and they can even be litter-trained. They’re terrific housepets - and it’s a waste of a great companion (not to mention cruel) to leave them out in the yard.

Here’s the scoop on bunnies as pets. House rabbits like to bond with fellow rabbits, and for that reason many Humane Societies and shelters only adopt them out in bonded pairs. These pairs are fast friends, and groom one another, share their food, and generally have a ton of fun together. But bunnies need human friendship too! They’ll get used to their pet humans, and enjoy being stroked, cuddled and played with. In fact, bunnies are a hoot! They’ll hunt for treats hidden around the room, and get as comfortable in your house or apartment as a cat or dog. And, bunnies do very well with these more common housepets, as long as they’re properly introduced.

Bunnies don’t make great pets for small children. They aren’t really delicate, but they can’t be picked up haphazardly, and small children may confuse their toy bunnies with the real thing. Kids under the teenage years shouldn’t be given full caretaking responsibility for a house rabbit. But with an adult’s supervision, bunnies are incredibly fun for families with older children.

Bunnies need fresh water, bunny food (which comes in pellet form), fresh veggies, and hay - lots of hay. All of these things are available in pet stores or from the local chapter of the House Rabbit Society, the group that specializes in educating people about bunny love. They need toys - things like empty toilet-paper rolls make great bunny toys - and some human attention every day. And they’re worth it!

Bunnies are incredibly relaxing pets. If you face a lot of stress at work, a bunny can send you right into the chill zone with some cuddly snuggling. Sometimes, men say “Bunnies are chick pets,” but wait until they touch one! Bunnies will eat out of your hand, hop over to you when you enter the room, and quickly hop their way into your heart!

My daughter’s “Can I have a rabbit?” request started the wheels turning, and we are now the happy guardians to four of these little sweeties. Bunnies are popular for a reason! To learn more, visit your local House Rabbit Society chapter page or ask your local animal shelter for more information on owning a house rabbit. You’ll be glad you took the time.

Liz Ryan is the founder and CEO of WorldWIT, the global online discussion network for professional women. She is the mother of five children, two dogs, a cat and four house rabbits. Liz lives in Boulder, Colorado. worldwit.org worldwit.org

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Tags: groom, heel

Along with the two main mistakes a novice exhibitor makes, that of holding the show lead in two hands instead of one, and of taking tiny little mincing steps when gaiting his dog, there are many small things, not exactly mistakes, which should be pointed out in order to improve handling. These are not in any particular order of importance, for when it comes right down to fine points, they are all important.

1. When showing your dog, use a firm hand — firm but not rough. The rough handling, if you have a hard-headed dog, should be done at home during the training period, certainly not in the show ring. Occasionally it may be necessary to reprimand a dog in the ring if he seems to have forgotten all his training, but when it is necessary, you should speak harshly to him, perhaps using a few light taps where they will do the most good. The gasp that goes up around the ringside whenever a dog is loudly spanked in the ring, even though the dog is not hurt, will convince you that I am correct.

It is necessary that you acquire a firm hand so that the dog knows what you expect of him. A wishy-washy touch with a dog is as bad as a wishy-washy handshake. The limp handshake might lose you an expected friend and a too-light touch with a dog might lose you an expected ribbon.

2. Don’t get down on both knees when you pose your dog. In order to get out of this position you must shift all your weight to one knee while you are bringing the other foot into position to stand on it. Frequently you lose your balance getting out of this position. I will admit that sitting on your heels during a large class is better than having nothing to sit on, but in the long run you will find the position has more drawbacks than it has comfort.

In showing a great many breeds you will be standing upright all of the time, but if you must get down lower, try the squat, or try placing only one knee on the ground and keep the other leg bent. Whichever you choose, keep your back as straight as possible. Either of these two positions allows you to get on your feet quickly and gracefully without the danger of losing your balance.

3. When you are in the show ring, don’t waste your time looking aimlessly around. While waiting for the class to begin, glance at your dog frequently to be sure he has not assumed a grotesque pose or that he is not getting into some mischief with another dog while you are staring into space.

While the dog is in a show pose, check on him frequently to be sure he has not stepped into a less attractive stance. If he is maintaining the correct pose, don’t fuss with him. Unless there is something that needs correcting, don’t spoil the picture your dog is making by nervous fussing with him which will accomplish nothing.

4. If you are showing your dog at a summer show out in the broiling hot sun and you are entered in a very large class which must, of necessity, take the judge a long time to do, here is a little tip. For you, as the handler, there is no way out of it, but you could try to cast a shadow with your body to give your dog a little comfort while waiting for the judge.

If it is a very large class, don’t pose your dog until the judge is just two or three dogs away from yours. Your dog will be just a little less tired of it all when the judge gets to him, and these little things count quite a lot in hot competition.

These four tips come from years of personal experience, and even professional dog handlers often overlook them. Just remember these easy pieces of advice, and your showing will go smoother but avoiding small annoyances, and allow you to focus your attention on the bigger issues.

FREE information and secrets on how to have the Champion at dog shows — Plus articles on how to show a dog yourself! It’s FREE! Click here: DogShowingSecrets.com DogShowingSecrets.com

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Tags: heel

For dogs that are living in the city with you, you should be weary of a few setbacks. For example, noise pollution is actually more of a problem to dogs than air pollution. Honking horns, sirens, airplanes, sonic booms, and crowd noises all take their toll on the city dog. Use the same precautions for your dog you would take for yourself. Avoid walking past construction projects if you cam avoid it, because loud sudden machinery noises can make even the best-trained dog break heel and dart away.

Narrow, thin alleys, or precarious, temporary construction crossings can be a problem. Remember, not all dogs are of the caliber of Seeing Eye dogs, which are able to cope with city stress because they are genetically and educationally prepared. When you must traverse an area where noise is deafening, hold the dog near to you on the leash, and cup one hand around the dog’s neck until the noise dies down or you pass out of its range. This comforting body contact can help the dog cope with the noise more easily.

Dogs should not be allowed to run free in city parks unless they are completely controllable. In some cities the law may forbid off-lead dogs altogether. Even city parks can be a stress for the dog and can provoke strange behavioral reactions. For instance, never allow the dog to run free with strange children. Don’t allow noisy children to crowd around your dog. Groups of screaming children have often triggered biting incidents or encouraged playful dogs to jump up. A child who is jumped on in play, and then falls and screams, can be perceived as prey by a dog, with occasionally tragic results.

The city dog needs to be able to deal with an incredible array of strangers each day. Many humans in cities simply go on “automatic pilot” and pass strangers without seeing particular faces. This ability to screen out distractions is more difficult for dogs to acquire. The dog remains interested, in a positive or negative way, in practically every human and dog it passes. Pedestrians may react in a variety of ways, from fear, to over-effusive affection, to outright disdain or hostility. There is simply no way to predict the variety of reactions, so the best approach is to expose your dog to all possibilities in a structured training session.

Accustom your dog to being approached, petted, and also possibly rebuffed. A leadership role by the master, and heeling practice, can help rivet the dog to its owner, but remember that heeling is always more difficult in the city. There are simply more distractions, more opportunities to lag behind and investigate or to lunge ahead. If you follow proper heeling methods and are sure to train your dog to heel by using distractions in your training sessions (traffic, other dogs, working in crowds), your dog should be controllable and able to meet any situation on the street.

For information and tips on dogcaretraining.com/index.php/112/how-to-give-your-dog-home-made-enema/ giving a dog a enema, visit dogcaretraining.com dogcaretraining.com, a website that specializes in providing tips, advice and resources on dog care, training and health.

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Tags: heel

Many people find it challenging to trim a cat’s nails. In the wild a cat will use trees to scratch. This helps stretch the cat’s back and promotes old dead nails to fall or scrape off. With indoor cats, it’s important to keep nails trimmed. However, you can hurt your cat if you don’t know what you are doing, so I encourage you to visit a veterinarian at least once and have them show you which part of the nail is dead. Once you are clear about the potion of the nail that should be trimmed, the five steps below will simplify and speed up the process at home. A couple of guidelines to keep in mind-never cut a nail too low, you only want to trim the tip-the area free of tissue. You must be able to see through the portion of the nail being trimmed. When your cat is asleep, you can lie down next to your cat, and gently squeeze one of their front toes. This will cause the nail to extend. The area that should be trimmed is the tip which will be free of any color, or inside color. If your cat’s nails are clearly see-through, you can trim using the following technique. You may want to pretend your trimming your cat’s nails right now. Once you feel confident with the steps below, use them the next time you need to trim your cat’s nails.

1. Purchase an appropriate size pet nail trimmer from a pet supply store. My favorite brand looks like a small scissors but has a round section for the nail. These scissors cost about $5. You always want a sharp nail trimmer. I replace mine every 6 to 8 months. Do not use a human nail cutter or regular scissors. You can cause injury to your pet. Place the scissors on a floor or table top in a quiet room.

2. Pick up you cat and pet it like normal. Place one hand underneath the ribs as you continue to pet the cat and walk toward the room where the scissor or nail trimmer is located.

3. Continue to hold the cat and kneel down next to the scissors in the following manner. Spread your knees approximately 10 inches apart (this is approximately two or three fist widths). As you kneel, place your big toes side by side and flatten you ankles on the floor if you can. Next sit back on your heels, keeping your knees apart. You hips should be directly over your feet or ankles.

4. Place the cat so that it’s feet are on the floor, it’s butt and tail are facing your belly or hips, and it’s head faces forward—the same direction as yours. Do not sit on or put weight on your cat. If your right handed, slip you left arm against the left side of the cat’s body, and firmly but gently hold the cat’s chest. With your right arm grab the nail trimmer, and drape your right arm or wrist in front of your cat’s chest to prevent them from bolting.

5. Bend forward a little bit and place your right elbow on the floor so your right hand can be stable. Continue to cradle the cat with your left arm and use your left hand to keep the cat from running forward.

6. Keep your right hand or wrist in front of the cat and with your left hand pick up the cat’s left front paw. Gentle squeeze a toe. The nail will extend forward. Make sure you can easily see the cat’s nail. With your right hand clip the dead portion (clear portion) of the nail. The cat should not scream or flinch if you have clipped only the tip. It’s always better to trim a nail too long and correct your mistake, rather than causing injury, pain and possible infection by trimming too short. Proceed to the next toe. If this is new to you or if your cat gets restless, you may just want to do a couple of toes at a time then let your cat go. Trim a few more nails tomorrow. If your cat is docile and you feel fine, proceed trimming every toe, then switch to the right foot. Also, cat’s have something called a “dew claw”. It’s an unused claw next to their front inside “ankles”. These claws are not used by the cat, but grow and must be trimmed.

A few things to keep in mind–cat’s always like to feel safe, so cradling them without applying any weight can be helpful. When a cat becomes upset, it needs to be left alone. Its brain literally gets overloaded and an upset cat is likely to become aggressive. If you are having difficulty and your cat is getting upset, let it go. You can modify this pose however you feel appropriate. I often like to trim my cat’s claws when they are sleeping on the bed or resting in my lap. If you want help, it’s usually pretty inexpensive to have your cat’s claws trimmed by veterinarian ($10-15). With most cats, the front claws need to be trimmed more often. Stay away from an inexperienced pet groom—I have seen and heard horror stories about nail injuries. If your pet’s nail is trimmed too close, besides causing pain, an infection can occur. In some cases, these infections can require extensive (an expensive) medical care and if untreated infections may lead to a painful death for your cat. Please see a veterinarian or a certified vet tech if you need assistance caring for your pet.

For more free pet care or animal welfare tips, visit PetCareRCA.com PetCareRCA.com Kate Garvery is the founder and director of the Pet Care Resource Center of America. She is also a freelance writer and provides professional writing services for individuals and business owners kategarvey.net kategarvey.net Kate is the author of 3 non-fiction books and more than 40 non-fiction articles.

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Tags: groom, heel, welfare