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Horses, Lameness, Shoeing, The Truth About Hoof Balance

August 29th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

When it comes to shoeing and Farrier talks one of the least understood topics is the discussion of hoof balance. Ask half dozen different Farriers the meaning of hoof balance and you’re likely to have half dozen different answers. While hoof balance is so misunderstood it’s also most crucial to avoiding permanent lameness to horses. Put those two ingredients together and you have a recipe for disaster. Until hoof balance is completely understood there’s a 98% chance a horse will remain at serious risk. Let’s discuss balance and reduce the risk.

True hoof balance is not simple; it’s a combination of many different principles and applications. Balance involves bone angles, loads, support, and alignment of joints, shoe placement, foot length and direction and more. All these areas need to be put together like a puzzle in the proper proportions and amounts before optimum performance can be achieved.

Sometimes talking about what hoof balance is “Not” is easier than talking about what it is and while doing so you can recognize when you or your horse are in danger. Here’s a simple list.

1. A long toe stretching forward too far is out of balance. When the toe of the hoof wall progresses forward it pulls the heels forward with it.

2. A result of heels being pulled forward are contracted heels (when the bulbs of the foot become progressively narrow).

3. Too high or too low is out of balance.

4. Pigeon toes or toed out are out of balance.

5. Uneven hoof wall where the medial side of the hoof is either shorter or longer than the lateral side is out of balance.

6. Not enough hoof wall in line with the break over point is out of balance.

Many times there will be a combination of all the above and this is a real problem. Horses in this condition are being seriously compromised. Where it is easy to identify potential problems correction is all together another story. Correction is a very complex combination of the most advanced elements of shoeing. And if we look at the very first paragraph of this article you will realize most Farriers just don’t know how to place a horse into optimum performance and minimum risk of lameness. This is sad but true.

Horses become lame due to one or a combination of any of the above issues pointed out on the list. Sometimes permanently lame.

The purpose of this article is to increase your awareness of the importance of correct shoeing practice and to empower you to take action to control the risk. This article will also point you to a method of horseshoeing that has a 16 year 100% track record – “Not One Single Lame Horse”. You can get your hot little hands on this method by clicking the link below in the author bio. Your horse will love you for it.

Author Bio: John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 100% track record just go to Care4Horses.com Care4Horses.com and leave contact information.
thank you and remember to Care4Horses

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

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Dog Training

August 26th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Dog training teaches your dog how to behave and identifies any minor problems your dog might need work on. A trained dog is a happy dog, as is the owner. Dog training is all about properly communicating with a dog, and while it takes around seven to eight weeks to train an older dog, young pups can be trained in as little as two to three weeks.

Dog behavioral problems can be resolved through effective training methods coupled with patience and understanding on the part of the trainer. There is no need for physical discipline or strong language in order to adequately train your dog. There are many methods that make training a fun time for you and your dog. There are also trainings to make the dog useful for particular tasks such as guide dog for the blind, rescue dogs, hunting dogs and many more.

When training, make sure to choose a quiet and open place with not many distractions. Make the experience a pleasant one for you and your dog in order to make sure that your dog gains more confidence, stays happy and is well behaved. The tone and way of speech matters in . For commands such as ‘’ and ‘come,’ use a happy and friendly tone. ‘Sit down,’ and ‘stay’ commands should be issued in a lower and firmer voice. Learn to appreciate the dog or puppy when it obeys the command by offering it some food or a toy. Take a little time playing after the training class. Try to develop a bond with your puppy or dog during the training. Avoid harsh punishment and maintain good endurance to carry out the training. By doing this, you not only develop a well-behaved dog, but also a faithful friend.

z-DogTraining.com Dog Training provides detailed information on Dog Training, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Agility Training, Dog Training Collars and more. Dog Training is affiliated with e-DogKennels.com How To Build A Dog Kennel.

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The Sisters

August 10th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

A white BMW rounded the curve in the night darkness, its headlights catching the silhouette of two standard poodles running into the road. A screech pierced the air as the driver hit the brakes.

My husband, Dick, had had the dogs off-leash at a dog park on a rainy Thanksgiving evening when they heard something that frightened them. They sprinted off, their black coats blending into the surrounding darkness. He ran after them, calling their names, “Chien! BonBon!”

Now, Dick saw Chien, the male, lying on the ground. The driver and passengers were climbing out of the BMW. One passenger, an older woman, had started to cry. BonBon was prancing in circles in the road. Dick grabbed her by the collar and pulled her into our van, which was parked nearby. Dick gingerly lifted Chien into the van with the help of a passerby, and drove to the nearest animal hospital. BonBon, frightened and shaking, crouched in the front wheel-well of the vehicle–while Chien died in the back.

Dick and I grieved deeply over Chien’s sudden death. BonBon was traumatized–she took to her bed with one of her stuffed toys, or “babies,” and rarely left the bed, day or night, except when she needed to go outside.

For years, BonBon and Chien had relished an early morning routine in our back yard in a Phoenix suburb of barking back and forth with the dogs next door. Fortunately, no other neighbors were close enough to be disturbed. Our property has a block wall around it, but if the poodles crouched down, they could peer at their pals through an opening under the wall where a wash runs between the two lots. Now, when BonBon went out in the morning, she stood by silently while the dogs on the other side barked. She ignored her favorite treat–Trader Joe’s peanut butter dog cookies. And, when we got home from work (in the past, a joyous occasion with the poodles jumping up on us, barking and licking us), she stayed on her bed. It was very sad to her in this terrible state of depression.

Within a few days of Chien’s death, Dick and I knew we had to get another companion for BonBon. We agreed to look for a female about her age, and we definitely wanted another black standard poodle.

We started our search by contacting animal shelters and poodle rescue leagues over the
Internet. However, we did not find any standard poodles that needed a home, let alone one of our specifications. The breeders we talked to had only puppies.

A whisper of Fate stirred in my mind at some point, reminding me that the breeder in El Paso, Texas, who had sold us Chien and BonBon, had said when we left the kennel with BonBon, “If anything ever happens, and you can’t keep your dogs, call me, and I’ll take them.”

I reminded Dick of this and said, “Maybe she told other people that, too, and someone has brought back a poodle we could have.” When we found no standard poodles closer to home, he finally looked up the breeder’s name and called her.

Brigitte Copeland was in the process of closing down Copeland Kennels, after 26 years, to go home to Germany to take care of her aging parents. She had several poodles for sale, including Maggie, a retired show dog, who turned out to be exactly the dog we were looking for. Maggie, a six-year old, female, black standard poodle, was BonBon’s littermate. Her Sister!

We flew to El Paso on December 18 to pick up Maggie, almost six years to the day we had made the same trip to pick up BonBon. Maggie is an American Kennel Club “finished champion,” whose formal name is Champion Falkirk Hocus Pocus. While BonBon was living the life of a common pet, hanging out in our back yard with Chien, her sister Maggie had strutted around the show ring to the applause of the crowds. While BonBon, spayed at an early age, mothered stuffed toys, Maggie had nursed a litter of real pups.

When we put a collar around Maggie’s neck to attach a leash to lead her from the kennel to our rental car, it was the first time in her life that she had worn a regular dog collar. A show dog doesn’t wear a collar because it will wear down the fur around its neck. When Brigitte wanted Maggie to do something, instead of pulling on a collar, she led her by the ears.

Dick drove the rental car from El Paso to Phoenix, with me sitting in the back, tightly hugging Maggie. We arrived home in the early evening and took Maggie and BonBon into our back yard to introduce them. They sniffed each other and got acquainted while on leashes; then were let loose. They were standoffish, but everything seemed to be going fine, until BonBon did a fast run around the yard and “body slammed” Maggie.

The body slam was a signal that BonBon was ready to play–it was something Chien used to do to BonBon when he wanted her to chase him. Maggie, who had never been body slammed, turned up her nose at this crude behavior, and started to walk back toward the house, straight into the swimming pool. As soon as her front paws got wet, she realized she was in trouble, caught her balance and backed up, walked around the pool, and into the house, holding her nose high in the air.

Maggie’s grooming put poor BonBon to shame. Maggie was coal black, although Brigette had described her as starting to grey, and BonBon was clearly going grey. Maggie had a fairly simple poodle cut, not the fancy cut she would have strutted in the show ring, but she did sport a wonderful puffy, pom pom tail with a little ring shaved at the base of it. BonBon had still a simpler cut and was overdue to be professionally groomed. I immediately got out a brush and started working on her.

At bed time, BonBon lay down on her bed in our bedroom, where she sleeps next to a very large, floppy, stuffed bunny we bought when she was new at our house to give her a “mother” to cuddle up to at night. She stretched out her legs and strategically placed her front paws on Chien’s bed, next to hers, to keep Maggie off. But Maggie was not interested in sleeping on a dog bed. She was uneasy in her new surroundings, and spent the night stretched out on the floor next to Dick’s side of the bed. We assumed she had slept in a cage at the breeders.

We took the poodles on leashes for a walk in the neighborhood the next morning. Maggie held her head high and glided along as though she were in a show ring; BonBon, harking back to her German ancestors, ran alongside the road with her nose to the ground, sniffing for game. Quite a contrast! We had to leave the dogs alone during the day while we went to work, but they were ignoring each other, so we were sure they would be okay while we were gone.

Dick came home from work early that day and took the dogs to the grocery store in what we call “the Dog Van,” a van, purchased specifically for the poodles. Chien and BonBon loved sleeping on the back seat, looking out the side windows, or lying on the floor between the captain chairs in front, and being petted as we traveled along. Maggie apparently had never ridden in a vehicle except while in a cage, and she seemed a little confused about what to do. She chose to lie on the floor–and traveled along, facing backward.

Over the next few weeks, BonBon’s depression disappeared, and Maggie’s assimilation into the family became complete. Maggie was just as loving as Chien and BonBon had always been. The sisters became close friends, licking each other’s faces in unison, running together to the wall in the back yard to bark at the dogs next door, and playfully taking turns sleeping on each other’s beds. BonBon gave up body slams, perhaps because she was learning more dignified behavior from her more refined sister. For our part, we bought some professional “Black Star” color-enhancing shampoo to take to our dog groomer, after which both dogs pranced around in coal-black coats.

Chien’s death was the result of bad Fate, or being in the wrong place at the wrong time. If Dick had not taken the poodles to the dog park that night, or had kept them on their leashes, Chien would not have died as he did. If the BMW had not happened along just when it did, things might have been different. However, we also had good Fate, in that we found Maggie because we called Brigitte when we did. If we had called even a few days later, Maggie might have been sold to someone else, and a few weeks later, Brigitte would already have left for Germany, and the phone would have been disconnected. The two sisters, separated shortly after birth and never expected to be together again, were reunited six years later to live out their lives together–due to Fate.

By Brenda Warneka

This article is condensed from a longer version that appears in The Simple Touch of Fate: Real People; Real Stories, an anthology compiled and edited by Arlene Uslander and Brenda Warneka, © 2003, all rights reserved. The Simple Touch of Fate contains more than 50 true inspirational stories, from around the world, about the incredible and incredulous effect of what some people call Fate or a Higher Power has had on their lives. See Warneka’s website thefatesite.com thefatesite.com for more information about the book. Buy the book now at Amazon.com Amazon.com $16.95 and other bookstores, or by calling the publisher, iUniverse’s toll free number 877-288-4737; International orders: 001-402-323-7800.

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How Are Sled Dogs Trained?

August 10th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Sled dogs are a group of dogs that are used to pull a vehicle that has no wheels but is set on runners over terrains of ice and snow. Sled dogs are attached to these vehicles by harnesses and lines. It is said that the origins of sled dogs can be traced back to Siberia as the people that live there have a long history of nomadic travel due to rather harsh winters.

There are certain breeds of dogs that are synonymous with being sled dogs. These dogs being Huskies and Malamutes although just about any medium sized dog would be suitable to be a sled dog.

Dogs that are selected to be sled dogs need to exhibit three main qualities. First of all they need to be in peak physical condition and be able to pull a sled, they need to have the endurance to be able to pull a sled over sometimes great distances and they need to have the speed in order to do the task of pulling the sled quickly. There are many teams of sled dogs that have been able to travel over one hundred miles in a twenty four hour period of time.

Teams of sled dogs can range from three dogs to a team of two dozen dogs. Sled dog teams not only pull several different types of sleds for racing and other transporting purposes they have also been known to pull skiers when there is little to no snow.

Pups that are being trained to be sled dogs are weaned from their mother as soon as possible in order to shift their attentions to their musher. They are at about six weeks old shifted from their mother into their own pen in order to accomplish this.

When pups that are being trained to be sled dogs are around five months old they are already running around with the lope that is characteristic of a sled dog and is also the time when they are first introduced to a harness.

There are many methods in which pups learn to be sled dogs. A very common method is to harness up to a dozen pups behind a pair of experienced older sled dogs and control the speed that they go with the use of an atv. The speed that the older dogs are allowed to go is gradually increased as the pups’ endurance and strength continues to increase.

People are amazed that sled dogs are so excited to be able to pull a sled over long periods of time and generally over very rough terrain. Mushers can attribute this to the very early interactions that they have with the pups that builds such a strong relationship between themselves and the dogs so very early in their lives.

Gray Rollins is a featured writer for DogTeachers.com - a great site for . Learn more about

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Dog Aggression - Identifying Aggressive Dog Behavior

August 5th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Aggression in dogs can be found in a variety of different behaviors and personality traits. Most dog owners only focus on the common aggressive dog behaviors such as barking, biting, growling etc… But it vital that you get to know your dog, that you can distinguish all types of . Aggression and dominant behavior are natural instinct for pack animals such as dogs, they play an important role in the survival of wild dogs, giving each member of the pack a place in the hierarchy, using aggression to defend against predators, to hunt, and to assert dominance.

The level of aggression your dog demonstrates is determined by how much of a threat the individual or animal is seen to be. We class these as low and high level aggression. Low level aggression is the everyday aggression most dogs display. This is generally passive aggression, giving the other dog or person a warning that your dog is aggressive and in control of the situation. Low level aggressive behaviors include

1. Growling
2. Ignoring owners commands
3. Pushing and leaning into people
4. Jumping up on people or animals to intimidate
5. Aggressive stance

You will notice your dog displaying this lower level aggression when he or she begins to feel threatened. A common time to observe your dog in ‘low level aggressive’ mode is when he or she is introduced to another dog for the first time. Both dogs will take a stiff stance, observing and keeping their head up, tails up, and ears pointed. This is intended to make themselves appear dominant, and to look as tall as possible. After getting a good observation of the other dog and getting comfortable with the situation, one dog will generally back away, and you will notice the aggression begins to die, and the two dogs will start to become familiar with each other. Generally speaking, a spayed female will usually be the first to back down, followed by a neutered male, then an intact female, and last to back down will be an intact male. The build and stature of a dog is often irrelevant when it comes to introductions and this first aggressive encounter. The exception to this hierarchy is in instances when neither dog backs down, the aggression then builds as the battle for dominance begins. This will often lead to an extremely loud vocal display and often physical interaction.

When dogs meet a human for the first time, aggression will be shown through jumping up, pushing or leaning until the person becomes unstable and looses their footing, or growling with an intense stare. With smaller dogs and young puppies this behavior can often be portrayed as cute behavior and go un-noticed. Failure to identify and deal with this behavior can lead to more serious when the puppy has grown to be a larger dog, it can become dangerous and difficult to train. Whether your dog is a new/small puppy or a larger dog, it is important to deal with these aggression issues as early as possible, so your dog’s ‘low level aggression’ doesn’t become a problem in years to come.

If your dogs passive (low level) aggressive behavior is ineffective, it will escalate to higher levels of aggression in an attempt to recover dominance. Higher level includes:

1. Snarling and snapping viciously
2. Biting
3. Jumping up and barking in an aggressive manner
4. Nipping at heels or legs
5. Staring and displaying teeth

Higher level aggressive behavior means business, your dog is still feeling threatened or non-dominant and your dog will move on to actual physical aggression, fighting, biting or attempting to bite. This is where things get serious and potentially dangerous. If you notice your dog’s behavior escalating to high aggression levels, you must look into behavior modification training immediately. It is your responsibility to keep the public, other dogs, children and visitors to your home safe by isolating or sufficiently restraining your dog.

Aggression is a natural instinct for dogs, and it is essential that the owner is in control of the dog’s aggression. Through early socialization and a firm understanding of the dog-owner relationship, your dog should not show aggressive behavior. If aggression does become a problem it is important to deal with the issue immediately. Re-training using positive methods works much better than punishment, but often professional assistance is needed.

Neutering a dog will control the hormonal causes of aggression, but not all aggression is hormonally caused. Spaying and neutering dogs does not guarantee that they will be docile, and breeds that are bred as watch dogs or herding animals will need specific training on being non-aggressive. Some dogs are not good with other animals or dogs, just like some breeds are less tolerant of children. It is important to understand the natural aggressive tendencies of the breed of dog that you are considering obtaining to make sure you get a good match for you and your family.

Colin Pederson is a self-confessed ‘Dog Fanatic’ residing in California with his wife and black Lab Casey. Colin runs ‘Dog Obedience Advice,’ offering free advice on dealing with dogobedienceadvice.com/dog_aggression Dog Aggression, and other issues all dog owners face.

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