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The Problems You May Encounter While Breeding Your Cat

January 2nd, 2012 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

If you are thinking about breeding your cat, you should really take the decision seriously. There are so many cats that end up in rescue homes each day because people no longer want them. There are kittens as well as older cats in rescue homes, so it is important to remember that and be responsible about breeding. If you want to breed pedigree cats, that is a responsible decision, but if you are looking to just breed any two cats together, you may need to think again!

The Most Common Problems Which Could Occur

There are a variety of problems that can occur when breeding your cat. The ones mentioned here are just a few of the most common.

Not Enough Space In The Home

Many owners do not take into account that your cat will need somewhere private and spacious in order to give birth to her kittens. If you do not have enough space, your cat may wander off and have the kittens elsewhere. This would obviously be a problem as you will not know where they are. If you are planning to sell them, you need to make sure that they are healthy and well looked after once they have been born. So, creating a nice, quiet and spacious area for your female cat to give birth is essential.

Your Cat May Not Take to Motherhood

Some animals do not take to motherhood simply because they have given birth. This means that some cats will give birth to healthy kittens but they will not be interested in them and, therefore, they will not feed them or look after them. If you were not prepared for this, it could be disastrous for you and you wouldn’t know how to look after the kittens yourself, so they could all die. So, do as much research as you can and have a back up plan in case something does go wrong. Of course, it is also entirely possible that the mother will only reject one of her kittens, but either way, you will end up looking after it if that is the case.

You need to be aware of all problems that could occur. Abandonment after birth is one of the biggest concerns, but kittens can also be born deformed. Obviously, you may not be able to find a home for that , so you will need to decide if you are willing to keep and raise the yourself? You also need to think about the costs involved when breeding a cat. It will need to be checked regularly before the kittens are born and the kittens will need to be checked after they are born. You may need to give vaccinations and also pay for other costs so it certainly isn’t cheap!

If you keep everything in mind, it should be OK to breed your cat. You just need to know what you are letting yourself in for.

If you decide to breed your animal and want help selling the resulting kittens the best way to do so would be with a site to help you Petwebdesigner.com Sell Your Pets Check out Petwebdesigner.com Petwebdesigner.com for assistance getting a great site online to help you get top dollar!

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What’s the Best Diet for a Pregnant Cat?

December 26th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Pregnant cats have to eat for two, three, four, five, even six cats. So her regular meal is just not enough. What should you give instead?

Pregnant and lactating queens need more calories than normal. However, you won’t have to force her to eat. Cats are very intelligent animals. They know when they have to eat and how much.

Don’t get worried if your cat’s appetite decreases in the very early stages of pregnancy. Soon her appetite will increase, and this time dramatically.

The quality of the food is essential. Of course you should always give your cat a nutritionally balanced meal, but this time it’s even more important than usual. You are not feeding one cat anymore, but a few (soon-to-be) kittens as well!

It’s recommended to buy food from a pet store. Most experienced breeders agree that food is the best for your pregnant cat – yes, even when the kittens are not there yet. Why? Because food contains more calories and protein, and that’s just what your queen needs.

Gradually start mixing your cat’s regular food with this high-quality food you found in your pet store. Add more food every week. During the week of birth your queen should eat only food.

Some breeders also serve raw meat and say that’s good for a pregnant cat as well. However, there is some controversy about this.

About 24 to 48 hours before delivery a pregnant queen will refuse food. Her appetite should return within one day after she gave birth.

Keep her on a food diet until the kittens are weaned.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Journalist Marc de Jong is a long-time cat lover and owner of a popular web site on cats. More in-depth information about food for kittens and pregnant cats is found in his ebook How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through

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Importance of Toys for your Cats and Dogs

December 24th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Toys have been a part of almost every child’s life. It may come in different sizes, shapes and materials but all are design to give a particular child the satisfaction and imagination they need in order to succeed in life. When it comes to the two most common and loved domesticated pet, toys are like the next best thing since their master is not always around to play with them.

For Dogs
If you are a dog owner you probably experienced losing a pair of good shoes from you’re your dog’s chewing activity, which often makes you disappointed with your dog. But when you think of it, it’s not solely your dog’s fault; after all they don’t have a high thinking capability like their masters. Dogs always seek attention and because their master cannot always be there for them, they end up playing with anything that has a scent of their master to satisfy their desire for attention. This includes shoes, socks and slippers which they can easily get and play with when unattended. Furthermore, when it comes to puppies, chewing on something hard is a natural act to help them remove their puppy teeth and give way for their permanent adult teeth. This usually happens between the age of 12 weeks and 6 months.

Now whether you want to teach your dog not to chew on your belongings or you just love your dog, why not give him dog toys that will definitely make him satisfied especially at times where you can’t play with them. Choosing the best dog toy for your dog may vary on size of your dog. Remember not to give your dog a dog toy that is too small where he doesn’t need to chew it before ingesting, because a piece of that toy might end up choking him.

For Cats
House cats, especially young kittens are known to love playing with anything that moves such as curtains and strings; much like in some cartoons and photographs where the cat cannot resist playing with the ball of yarn. Even though cats love to play with strings and yarns, it is recommended to only give them certified cat toy to avoid health complications. Furthermore, cats sleep for as much as 16 hours per day, which is why a cat toy is essential for its physical and mental exercise. Aside from exercise cat toys also relieve boredom and release anxiety which is commonly experienced by indoor cats. If you have several cats, a cat toys are also a perfect bonding equipment to prove that cats are not solitary animals.

In choosing the best cat toy your cat deserves, of course you need to consider the size of your cat. Don’t forget that cats has sharp teeth and claws that can torn their toy easy, so it’s better not to buy cat toys that has strings, buttons and ribbons and other small parts. You also need to observe your cat’s behavior to determine what things attracts him the most so that the cat toy which you bought will be enjoyed by your cat.

Affordable quality dogtoys-4less.com Dog Toys and cattoys-4less.com Cat Toys from Pet Products 4Less

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Bringing Home a Second Dog

November 29th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Bringing a second dog home requires a lot of thought. It means a complete change in your “normal” family routine. It matters not whether the new dog is a puppy or an adult.

There are many things to consider before you bring the new pet home.

It is not just a matter of bringing the new dog home and you all will live happily ever after (though that can be a remote possibility.)

You need to take time to think this new undertaking through and mull over these questions:

Are you living on a tight budget? A second dog will require annual vet visits, will need food, toys, perhaps a new crate and possible training classes.

A second dog requires “time.” Do you have extra time to play, for walks, time to your pet, time for feeding, training and extra clean up?

Does your current dog have any behavioral problems? A
new dog might not be able to teach your old dog to stop misbehaving. You could end up with two dogs each with bad behaviors, making matters worse.

Do you have the patience to adhere to “dog pack’ rules? Even though you are the LEADER, two dogs are a pack and one or the other will become the second leader. If it’s the new dog, can you adjust to following the rules? The leader dog gets to be “first” in all things and you cannot change that. Trying to change what is natural dog behavior will cause conflict and “big trouble.”

Are you prepared for the resident dog to start misbehaving, such as using the house as a potty place, chewing things and just being destructive in general? The newcomer may upset your pet.

Is your current dog friendly with other dogs and people? If your resident dog is a “bully,” your chances of finding a “friend” for him/her are slim. Training classes for your current dog maybe the answer before you plunge into getting another dog.

How is the stress level in your household? Have you moved, added a new family member or has anything else happened to upset the normal routine of the household? Dogs stress out during changes in their routine. Times of stress are not a good time to bring home a new dog.

Are you happy with your dog right now? A second dog could bring changes in your dog’s personality. The two dogs could really bond
and might prefer being together, ignoring you, except for food and treats. Are you ready to accept that?

Read these questions a few times and answer them truthfully. Being truthful will help eliminate you making a mistake.

Some dogs really don’t want a “companion,” they are as happy as a clam being the “only dog.”

The real question here is “is it you that wants a new dog?”

Once you have made up your mind and truly feel that another dog will be an added benefit to your household. There are a few more things to consider such as: puppy, young adult or an older dog. That will depend on your resident dog.

Puppies are probably easier to introduce to your current dog, as a puppy doesn’t appear as an intruder, only as a pest.

If you decide on a puppy, please keep this in mind. Puppies do not realize they are supposed to behave in a certain way until they are about 4 months old.

Until they are old enough to know all this “dog stuff,” it will be up to you to protect the puppy from the older dog and protect the older dog from the puppy.

The puppy will drive the older dog crazy at times. Puppies want to play; older dogs will play for a little while then want to stop.

It is up to you to give your older pet, free time away from “fluff and stuff.”

Do not under any circumstances leave the puppy and older dog alone without supervision.

Always put the puppy in its crate or put your resident dog in a safe room if you are leaving the house or cannot supervise.

The older dog could unintentionally injure the puppy, if the puppy pesters the older dog too much.

Adding a young adult dog or an older dog to your household requires a lot more tact along with patience and planning. You are going to need help with this one.

Step number one; the dogs will have to meet on neutral ground. To do this you will need help of a friend or a relative (not a member of your household.)

The dogs need to meet in a place your dog has never been, that will be the neutral territory. It can be a park, a neighbor’s yard, or if all else fails a parking lot.

Both dogs need to be on a leash and introduced casually. Allow them to do all the “doggy things,” such as smelling each other, their stance may be rigid, but for the first meeting that is okay. However, if you hear growling or see lip curling, calmly move them apart.

Remain calm and do not be nervous, talk to the dogs in a “happy voice.”

After a few minutes try to introduce them again, but do not let them get too close together.

If the growling and lip curling happens again it is a good bet that these two will not ever be friends.

Whatever you do, do not try to force a friendship. You will only be looking for a great deal of trouble when you get them home.

Dogs will fight and if they do not like each other, it can be disastrous for you and the dogs.

In looking for a new dog (not a puppy) try to find a dog whose personality matches that of your dog. If your dog is outgoing and friendly, find one that is equally so. If your dog is quiet and gentle, do not bring home a dog that is very active and playful, the match more than likely will not work.

Female dogs that have been the only dog in the house seem to have a harder time adjusting to a new “friend.”

Dogs that have been socialized and get along well with other dogs have an easier time relating to a new dog in the household.

One of the first rules in raising a puppy is “socialize, socialize and socialize” some more. If you have followed that rule, adding a new dog should be easier.

Once the introductions have been made and it is time to bring the two dogs home a good suggestion is “do not bring them home together” in the same car. Let the person who helped you with the introduction bring the new dog home.

It is a suggested procedure that when you have both dogs at home you keep their leashes on them. It will be easier for you to keep control if you need to by having a leash to grab on to.

If the new dog is close in age to your resident dog there is bound to be a bit of aggression going on.

You now have a “pack,” it will be necessary for the two dogs to decide which one is going to be second in charge (you are the real leader) and this decision may take some haggling.

Acceptable aggressive behavior should last for a few seconds (10 -–20 seconds) and may consist of some growling, lip curling, snarling, snapping and possibly pinning one of the dogs down by the neck.

Unacceptable aggressive behavior would be biting to draw blood or any of the above behaviors that last more than a few seconds.

One of the dogs may exhibit submissive behavior and this is to be expected also. Barking like a puppy, rolling over on its back, tail between its legs, running away from the other dog are all acceptable submissive behaviors.

It may take the dogs a week or two to settle on who is the leader and while that is going on DO NOT let them alone together unsupervised.

Put the dogs in separate areas or in their crates, do not let them be together until you are certain they have settled their ranking and will get along.

The hardest thing for you will be following their decision especially if your first dog is no longer the “number one.”

The important thing here is that you abide by their decision no matter how hard it will be for you.

The number one dog gets the first treats, is first out the door, is first to be fed and so on.

Speaking of feeding, give each dog their own bowls and their own eating spot, do not let one steal food from the other.

Expect your first dog to go through some stress and probably some misbehavior patterns as this new addition will be upsetting to it and the dog will need to adjust.

It is up to you to expect these problems and act accordingly. Remember your dog did not ask for a new friend. It was your idea. As the old saying goes “you made your bed now lie in it.”

It may take a month or more for a routine to establish and peace to rein supreme once again in your household. If you keep the dogs apart when you are not home to supervise and you make the time they spend together “fun” they will soon become friends, maybe not “best friends,” but close enough to enjoy being together.

Do not forget that you are the LEADER, the boss supreme, and you run the show, and both dogs need to follow your orders first.

Do not beat, hit or otherwise use force to make a point, be patient, stern if necessary and most of all CONSISTENT in what you are asking of the dogs.

One last point: exercise is the secret to keeping your dogs too tired to argue with each other. Exercise relieves their stress (and maybe yours. too) and tired dogs behave better.

Good luck and remember to have FUN.

I am a mother of 6, grandmother of 9 and great grandmother of 4. Animals and their care has been a part of my life from early childhood. I have hand raised many kittens, puppies, squirrels and baby birds with great success. I am committed to educating people to understand that having a pet is a commitment and not just a “fly-by-night” endeavor. Having a pet means caring and loving it for its lifetime and not just for a time that suits your wim. For more information on the care and nurturing of cats and dogs please see my website at cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

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De-Clawing - A Cruel Act of Mutilating Cats

November 29th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

De-clawing is physically and emotionally maiming cats. Case studies have shown that de-clawing is a cruel act of mutilating animals that result to the de-clawed animal becoming lame, not to mention developing arthritis, depression and a host of other long-term complications. Any way you look at it, de-clawing cats is inhumane. In fact, many countries consider de-clawing illegal. In the United States, however, self-serving cat owners practice this cruel act.

More than Just Trimming the Toenails

De-clawing is not a simple matter of trimming the cat’s toenails. It is a form of surgery that involves amputating the toe bones at the end of a cat’s paws. The whole procedure requires a post-operative period of recovery that is quite different from what human surgical patients go through. After all, feline patients don’t usually have the comfort of a hospital bed, bed pan or wheelchairs.

What they do have are litter boxes, and the pet owner’s place in which to stay as they regain the use of their feet — a process that is not without pain, to say the least, since cats can’t resist walking, jumping and scratching. These self-sufficient animals would rather hide their pain than be helpless. But they may also begin to exhibit untoward behavior to cope with their discomfort, putting your furniture and other property at risk of damage.

A De-clawed Cat is a Vulnerable and Hostile Cat

A de-clawed cat, once back in his litter box, will not be able to dig properly. Thus, he may wander off to other places where he can pee: on the living room carpet, the cupboard or by the door. Many cat owners discover that scratches on the drywall or floorboard are much easier to deal with than cat urine, which can penetrate deeply.

De-clawing a cat deprives him of one of his primary means of defense, rendering him vulnerable to threats from unfriendly animals or, worse, predators, should he ever step outside the house unaccompanied. The loss of claws also invariably impairs mobility and balance orientation. The sense of insecurity this engenders sometimes leads to hostility and aggressive behavior that may be directed at people, including the pet owner. Remember, the de-clawed cat still has his sharp teeth with which to bite human flesh!

Mutilation in the First Degree

Claws naturally endow cats with fearsome grace, and removing the claws can indeed be crippling. Drastically altering the structure of these elegant animal parts is mutilation of the first order. Even the most insensitive cat owner will balk at the idea of de-clawing their wards if the appropriate but horrible-sounding word “amputate” were used to describe the practice. The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) is unequivocally opposed to de-clawing as a way of correcting feline “vices,” describing it as a disfigurement that offers convenience to people but only sufferings for the cat.

Alternatives to De-clawing

* If you do not want your cat clawing on your furnishings or scratching his claws on any part of your house, temporarily protect these areas with duct tape or aluminum foil. Cats typically are averse to scratching these surfaces.

* While you are training your cat, you can him with water, blow a whistle or make loud noises whenever he claws or scratches on something that you do not want him to.

* Trim your cat’s toenails regularly.

* Get your cat a few scratching posts and place them in designated areas in the house. You can train your cat to use his claws on these scratching posts instead of using them on your furniture. Other cat furniture can serve the same purpose, like cat condos, pet steps, etc.

There’s one product I won’t hesitate to recommend in case you have met with less success in training your , or obtained your pet already a fully grown adult. This is the Soft Paws vinyl nail cap to keep furniture from being scratched by feline claws. Developed by a veterinarian, this product falls off as the cat’s nails grow, to be replaced by a new one. A possible drawback is that it may keep your from enjoying the act of clambering up his post.

You may also want to buy scratching posts or acecatfurniture.com cat furniture from your local pet supplies retailer. I have used these materials extensively around the house since my cat Ace was a . He enjoys clawing on them so much that pawing any of the chairs and sofas has probably never occurred to him!

Clawing- A Natural Part of Cat Behavior

Scratching with claws is one way cats mark their turf. This is accomplished through glands beneath their paws that secrete a distinctive scent. The pulling and stretching of muscles in cats’ front quarters when they scratch also serves as a form of exercise that helps to keep them fit. This facility for clawing is such a natural part of these felines’ behavior that taking it away from them amounts to one of the more cruel forms of deprivation.

David Lee is owner and designer of Ace Cat Furniture and Ace Cat Health web sites. See his sites for more information on cat health like, acecathealth.com/cat_fleas.html cat flea control , or acecathealth.com/cat_disease_leukemia.html cat leukemia

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