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Feline Flea Control Tips and Tricks That Every Cat Owner Should Know

February 21st, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

No matter how meticulously clean you keep your cat, or how hard you work to prevent them, fleas are bound to make an appearance sooner or later. If you have never tried to convince your cat of the importance of flea dips, you are missing out a truly harrowing experience, let me tell you. Your cat will most likely want no part of what you are proposing, no matter how much you bribe or beg, and it will probably end in a major battle of wills and brute force, with you hopefully, being the winner. However, I do have some good news to share with you…..you don’t have to fight the battle of the feline flea dip anymore. There are several new flea control methods that are safer, and easier to use, so you and your cat can toss the flea dip out the window, and both of you can do the happy dance once again!

Yes, you can still go the traditional feline flea control route, of using collars and shampoos, but there are still better, easier options out there. There are now flea control medications that you can give your feline friend one time a month, that work wonders on preventing fleas and other parasite infestations. You can give these medications to your cat by mouth, by injection (ouch!), or topically, however you prefer. No matter how you get it done, you must practice some form of feline flea control, if you love your cat. Fleas and other can carry hundreds of deadly feline diseases; can cause tapeworms, infection, and even allergic reactions. Some animals who aren’t properly cared for have actually died due to massive blood loss caused by tick infestations. So, you can likely now see the importance of feline flea and parasite control, even if you didn’t think it was a big deal before.

These new flea control medications work differently than those you may have used in the past. These medications actually kill the parasite on contact, meaning that it doesn’t have a chance to hang around on your cat and have parasite babies, as they often did with the old medications. Talk with your veterinarian about trying some of the new feline flea control medications, and discuss the risks and benefits of them before making a final decision.

One of the new monthly flea control treatments doesn’t kill mature fleas, but can kill eggs before they hatch. This flea control medications uses a chemical called lufenuron, and can be used once a month if taken orally, and semi-annually if administered by the veterinarian in injection form. One disadvantage of this medication other than it not working on mature fleas is that it does nothing to protect your feline friend from ticks. Frontline, however, does have a feline formula that you apply directly to your cat’s fur, which kills both fleas and ticks, and prevents new infestations from occurring. The active ingredient in this feline flea control medication is fipronil.

If you prefer topical feline flea control treatments, rather than those given by injection or orally, you might want to try Advantage. Advantage can be applied once a month, and will work regardless of how many baths your cat gets during that time. This flea control medication doesn’t work well against other .

The best feline flea control medication that works to prevent both flea and ticks infestations is Revolution. This medication comes in the form of a liquid that you apply directly onto your cat’s skin. This feline flea control not only kills and protects against fleas and ticks, but also can protect your cat from , hookworms, ear mites, and even roundworms.
If you haven’t always done such a good job with feline flea control, your little feline friend may very well already be infested. If that is the case, you will never completely get rid of the fleas until you treat your home too, both inside and outside.

You could always contact an exterminator, if you don’t want to deal with the problem yourself, but you can expect to pay a hefty sum for their services. To handle the problem on your own, purchase at least one flea fogger for each room of your home, and purchase flea spray for areas that are hard to reach, such as behind appliances or in corners. Vacuum everyday, so that you can get all of the eggs out of your carpets, preventing new hatchlings from re-infesting your home; change your vacuum bag after each use. If your cat has soft bedding or toys, they should be cleaned as well.

To treat your yard, you can purchase special flea sprays that are environmentally safe, some even come in containers that hook onto your water hose, making it quick and easy to take care of those outdoor fleas, and protect your cat.

It can be frustrating to get rid of fleas once your cat and home have been infested, but with patience and hard work, as well as a good flea control medication, your feline can be parasite free again!

Learn more about flea prevention and Holistic Pet Health at natureshealthypet.com Natures Healthy Pet

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Dog Infections 101 – What They are and How to Treat Them

February 4th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

A dog might suffer a number of diseases during its lifetime. Being attentive of these illnesses and the correct method to care for them can assist you greatly in caring for your dog better. Dogs should be vaccinated and given booster at least once every 6 months to keep them safe. Your dog can be vaccinated against hepatitis, distemper, rabies, corona, leptospirosis, kennel cough and parvo. He could suffer at some point from domestic or outdoor and there are many different types of infections which a dog owner should know about.

You might consider getting Pet Insurance if you have one or more pets. A small occasional investment and decent care for your pet usually cost much less than risking an infection and having to fork out hundreds of dollars to treat them later.

The Parvo strain of virus is the most common and deadliest dog infection. Symptoms may include vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and eventually death.

Distemper is another viral infection. Symptoms may include fever, loss of appetite, nasal and eye discharges.

Canine hepatitis also causes comparable symptoms which should be treated with IV fluid therapy, antibiotics and nutritional support(consult your vet first).

Rabies is often spread by the bite of another animal. If your dog has rabies, he will behave oddly. A dog can be vaccinated against Rabies from 4 months of age. There is no cure, vaccination is vital.

Leptospirosis is a bacterial virus infection which attacks the dog’s kidneys and liver. Consuming contaminated liquids or infected urine from another dog can cause Leptospirosis. Fever, yellow gums, depression and blood in the dog’s urine might mean leptospirosis.

Kennel cough, or Bordatella, is a respiratory tract disease. Kennel cough symptoms often include a loud and coarse cough nasal and eye discharges. The treatment is usually anti-inflammatory medication, cough suppressants and antibiotics.

The dog infection Coronavirus or Corona for short is one of the more contagious viral illness. Vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss are possible warning symptoms and should be looked into. Antibiotics and IV fluids are used in the treatment of Corona.

Another highly common dog infection is the infection to it’s ears. Symptoms include pawing at the ears and shaking of the head constantly. You should examine your dog’s ears every month and take him to your local vet for treatment if you spot any signs, as soon as possible. Even common ear infections like blood clots may cause deafness and even lead to extreme blindness if not treated properly.

A few more obvious indications of a dog infection are heat, swelling and sluggishness. Appearing to be in hurt or pain, fretfulness or listlessness are also some more obvious indications.

If the infection is intense, then the dog might have a high temperature and be swollen around the neck, armpits or groin area. If you are unable to get to a vet straight away, you should keep the dog lying down to avoid any physical exertion that might lead to the infection spreading more quickly.

Dogs with infections might reject food and water so it is important to seek your vet’s advice.

Infections can be dangerous anywhere in a dog’s body but especially if they are around the body’s ‘wet’ regions like the nose or mouth as they could spread quicker to the blood stream and eventually to the vital organs. The key thing is to get your dog immunized as soon as he is old enough. Also be sure to follow up with a yearly injected or oral course booster.

Remember, your dog is part of the family and if you find your dog acting a little unusual or a bit ill, call the vet to schedule an appointment immediately. A dog’s body doesn’t work like a human body, dog infections can become severe very quickly and it won’t be a good idea to wait and see if the infection or illness heals itself.

I’ve hoped you enjoyed reading this article as much as I’ve enjoyed writing it for you. Visit dognpuppies.com dognpuppies.com for more informative articles about dognpuppies.com/Dog-Health/Are-Vaccinations-for-Dogs-Really-Necessary.html Dog infections and dognpuppies.com/Dog-Health/index.html Dog Health. Warm Regards, Jeremy C.W

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What You Can Catch From Your Pet - Skin Diseases

January 30th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Dogs, cats and small mammals such as rabbits or guinea pigs are popular companions for many people, often sharing their home environment. Being in such close contact, it is perhaps inevitable that sometimes disease is transmitted from pets to their owners. Though the diseases discussed in this article can affect any person, immunocompromised people such as infants, the elderly or those who are HIV need to be extra careful. This article looks at skin diseases of dogs and cats that can present a risk to their owners.

Actually, considering the large number of people interacting closely with small animals on a daily basis, the overall risk of contracting disease from a pet with skin disease is remarkably low. In general, keeping pets clean, free from and healthy, as well as good personal and household hygiene such as proper hand washing, will minimize the risk of catching a disease from your pet. However, people belonging to risk categories (the immunosuppressed) need more specific advice.

The increase in pet travel, and the occurrence of breeders sourcing stock from overseas, has made the risk of exposure to new diseases a little greater. The most common skin diseases transmissible to humans that occur in dogs and cats are sarcoptic mange (scabies), cheyletiellosis (mite infestation), fleas and dermatophytosis (ringworm). In general, young and newly acquired animals, especially those from animal shelters, are most likely to be affected by these diseases. Below we look at each of these diseases more closely.

Flea Infestation

Since the reservoir of fleas is predominantly in the environment, and jump onto the human from there, one might argue that this is not strictly transmitted from the animal. However, it is introduced into the household by the animal and therefore falls into this category.

The flea will readily feed on humans and can cause a marked hypersensitivity reaction in some individuals. In addition, fleas can transmit other diseases, such as cat scratch disease (Bartonella henselae), tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum) and plague (Yersinia pestis). Regular flea control with veterinary recommended spot on treatments will keep the environmental population of fleas low, and minimize the risk of bites.

Sarcoptic Mange

This is caused by the mite Sarcoptes scabiei, and can affect a number of species. Different strains of the mite do tend to prefer different species, and the most common one which affects dogs and foxes only has an estimated 20 per cent chance of transmission to humans. Prolonged skin to skin contact is the main route of transmission, with the disease presenting as an itchy rash with small red spots. Usually, disease in the human will clear up of its own accord, once the dog has been treated appropriately with a medicated shampoo or spot on drug. Occasionally, humans may need their own treatment though. It is very important to treat all in contact dogs as well. Unlike fleas, these mites do not tend to survive for long in the environment so reinfection is rare once the dog has been treated.

Cheyletiellosis

This can be caught from dogs, cats and small mammals such as rabbits or guinea pigs. Mites can survive in the environment for several days. Humans are only transiently infected, and develop itchy spots. Appropriate treatment of the affected animal, and the in contact animals, resolves the problem.

Dermatophytosis (Ringworm)

This is actually a type of fungus, not a worm as the name suggests. The most common type in dogs and cats is Microsporum canis. Transmission is often by direct contact, but spores can remain infective in the environment for many months. Dogs and cats may be carriers of the disease without showing any signs of it themselves, while acting as a source of infection for their owners.

In dogs and cats, infections with ringworm usually resolve by themselves given time, unless the animal is immunocompromised (e.g. on steroids). However, treatment is recommended so that the risk of transmission to humans is lessened. Dogs and cats are usually treated with a topical solution of itraconazole, while affected humans are usually prescribed an anti fungal cream to apply to affected areas.

Otodectic Mange (Ear Mites)

These mites cause ear infections in dogs, cats and ferrets. They can, rarely, affect skin outside of the ear, and this has been reported sometimes in humans. It is however rare, and easily controlled by treating the affected animal with a certain acaricidal spot on drug (e.g. selamectin, moxidectin) or topical ear drops.

Malassezia Dermatitis

These are yeasts often found on normal skin in dogs, cats, humans and other species. Skin disease occurs as a reaction to the yeasts overgrowth and the hosts reaction to it. Transmission to humans has only ever been documented in immunocompromised people, and the risk of infection is low.

Staphylococcal Infections

Staphylococcal pyoderma (bacterial skin infection) is common in dogs, but not in cats. It often occurs secondary to another disease and usually involves the bacterium Staphylococcus intermedius. Contrast this to humans, where the main cause of bacterial skin infection is Staphylococcus aureus, and it is clear that the risk of transmission to humans is very low.

Mycobacterial Infections

Tuberculosis poses a risk to human health. The bacteria Mycobacterium tuberculosis and Mycobacterium bovis can infect both cats and humans, and pass between them. The disease presents as nodules, draining tracts or non healing wounds, or as respiratory disease. Urgent medical and veterinary attention should be sought, though the incidence of pets passing it to their owners is very low.

Feline Poxvirus Infection

Cats get cowpox infections by being bitten by voles and wood mice. Hence it is only outdoor cats that are affected, namely those that hunt. Many affected cats do not show any signs of disease. Transmission to humans is rare, and can cause painful skin nodules.

What can immunocompromised people do to minimize the risk to them?

Firstly, a risk assessment should be carried out. Good communication is essential between the medical and veterinary professionals involved. The goal is to maintain disease free status in the pet, whilst practicing thorough hygiene measures by the person. Being immunocompromised does not mean you cannot have a pet, but the following points should be taken into consideration:

1. If acquiring a pet, make sure it is a healthy one, vet checked and not from a source rife with diseases.

2. Safe feeding practices

3. Avoid your pet coming into contact with contaminated material from other animals (e.g. feces)

4. Vaccination annually

5. Good worming control (every 3 months in adult dogs and cats)

6. Good flea prevention (usually monthly for spot ons)

7. Good dental care (brushing your pets teeth, dental chews to keep teeth clean)

8. Regular general health checks by your veterinarian

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at whydoesmypet.com WhyDoesMyPet.com Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

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Dog Kennel and Dog Care

January 27th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

A dog-boarding kennel is a safe and secure place for your pet to stay while you are on vacation or at times when you may not be able to have your pet with you. One of the best benefits of having your pet in a boarding kennel as opposed to leaving your pet with family and friends is that you know your pet will be kept safe, secure and well looked after by the kennel owners and staff. The best boarding kennels fill up quickly over the holidays and at favorite vacationing times. If you intend to go away at this time, make sure that you book your pet into the facility as early as possible.

Putting your dog into a boarding kennel will provide you with the peace of mind that you need in order to enjoy your vacation. A professional facility will provide around the clock care of your pet. The employees will be well trained and have experience in detecting the signs of distress or illness in your pet. There will usually be a vet either on premises or on call at the boarding kennel at all times.

Most of the time, a boarding kennel facility will be a member of the boarding kennel association. This means that the facility has been provided with proper training and direction and will adhere to strict guidelines in the quality care of your pet. A qualified and professional center will provide you with a tour of the facility and provide information about the care of your pet including the type of food it will be given and how often it will be exercised.

If you have special needs or your pet needs to be given medication, the staff at the boarding kennel will be able to provide this for your pet. You should make sure that the boarding kennel that you are thinking using is well ventilated, clean and comfortable for your pet. You ensure this easily by going to visit the boarding kennel and taking a tour of the facility. It will help ease your mind if you visit the boarding kennel and meet the people who will be taking care of your pet. This is a great time to ask any questions and express any concerns that you have about leaving your pet while on vacation.

Many boarding kennels will require that you bring proof of your pet’s immunization history and have your pet come to the center free of fleas and ticks. This is in the best interest of both you and your pet as you will know that the other pets in the facility are clean and free of and disease.

Prices for boarding are quite reasonable and usually start as low as $12 per day. Luxury suites will be more expensive. There are many kennels that provide discounts for long term boarding. When leaving your pet at a boarding kennel it is a good idea to make your farewell quick and formal. This will reduce the amount of stress that your pet will suffer after you leave.

Simon Oldmann is an avid dog lover, now living in the countryside he setup a dog kennel for his dogs, Simon currently writes tips and advice on dogkennel.zupatips.com/ Dog Kennels planning, designing setup and buying.

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Frog Eye or Wonder Gecko Care (Teratoscincus scincus)

January 25th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Frog Eye Geckos are becoming more common in the pet trade nowadays, particularly with the vast number of keen gecko enthusiasts. Captive breeding of this species has become well understood and easy to achieve. These geckos are native to fairly hot, arid climates within Southern Asia (Afghanistan, Iran, Arabia, Kazakhstan and Western China). These geckos are particularly well known for their incredibly delicate skin and cautious nature. They will shed their tail with ease if handled incorrectly, and the regular human finger-nail can tear right through the thin skin of these geckos. Although this species is a pleasure to keep, I would rate them as an intermediate species to keep.

Housing

For a single or pair or trio of frog eye geckos, a vivarium 60cm Length x 30cm Width x 30cm Height will be ample room. It should be noted that males are extremely aggressive with each other and should not be housed together. A vivarium can be made from a number of materials; wooden with melamine coating, glass, plastic and even good quality metal enclosures have been made.

I suggest a wooden vivarium, which is coated with melamine to allow the enclosure to last much longer. If you use regular chipboard or other non-coated woods, the vivarium will not last long with the water spillage and waste products related to keeping any animal. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation holes. Many vivariums are available on the market today already made to suit most reptiles, with ventilation holes and even fittings for the various heat and light appliances.

Substrate & Decor

Frog Eye Geckos come from dry, arid areas which should be re-created in a captive environment. It is not essential to use natural sands and substrates; newspaper would do the job but it is not aesthetically pleasing. The point is though, that the substrate must be dry. That is not to say though that the gecko cannot get to moist areas, as they will often crawl into slightly moist burrows in the wild. A small moist hide box would be a benefit, especially for when the time comes for the gecko to slough its skin.

A choice of substrate very much depends on what is more important for you. If you want something to look natural, then sand and soils can be the most aesthetically pleasing. These however are dirty and dusty and should be sieved through regularly to remove any waste. If sand is used, calcium based sand is recommended. This dissolves quicker than other sands and will even benefit your gecko with calcium additives when swallowed. Newspaper is cheap and easy to clean, but is hardly a catchy part of an enclosure. Wood chips can be used, but can often be swallowed by accident, causing an impaction in the gut of the gecko. The preferential substrate for the geckos would almost certainly be sand. They regularly dig and if the sand is wet down to form various layers of dampness, the geckos will be able to dig and form a number of burrows with hiding chambers at the end of each burrow.

For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. Although some live plants are safe to use, I suggest fake plants and cacti. Live plants will require more care and many give off toxic fumes. Be careful when placing heavier objects into the enclosure. Frog eye geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.

If you use any objects which have been outside, wash them thoroughly with hot water and weak disinfectant. It is important to be as clinical as possible and reduce any risk of bringing in infectious diseases or .

Heating & Lighting

The most economical and simple way to add heat and light into your vivarium is to use a single incandescent spot lamp. Usually a 60 Watt bulb will be adequate for smaller vivariums. This should be on for 10-12 hours a day and should be used in conjunction with a Dimming thermostat. During the day time the temperature should be approximately 82ºF at the cool end, and 88-94ºF under the spot lamp. Once the light goes out, the temperature should be an overall 74-78ºF. It is often enough to just let the vivarium go down to room temperature. However, the temperature should be monitored with a thermometer and if it drops below the recommended temperature, some form of background heating will be required.

Background heat can be added with a small heat mat. This should be placed on the back wall of the vivarium and placed in the centre. Depending on how low the temperature drops at night, will depend on the size of heat you require. However, I suggest a 6”x11” HabiStat heat mat. This should be enough just to bump the temperature up a few degrees.

Feeding & Drinking

It is important that water is available at all times. Although frog eye geckos come from dry, arid areas, they still like to drink. A shallow water dish which is hard to tip over and easy to clean is ideal. It is also an idea to have a bowl which does not have small crevices and cracks in it, which mould can build up in, and small insects can hide in.

Frog eye geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. Such prey items include; small mealworms, wax worms, earthworms, crickets and locusts. However certain foods should be limited. It is important that the food you give your gecko is as highly nutritious as possible. It would be nearly pointless to feed a starved cricket to your gecko. Therefore, placing food such as potato peel and cabbage into the insect’s enclosure will benefit the gecko as much as the insects. Gut-Load can also be bought from many retailers. This is a balanced food for insects and should be offered to the insects at least 12 hours before feeding.

Hatchling or juvenile frog eye geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 10 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko’s mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium:Phosphorous supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas. MediVet Repton, 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorous is a good product to use.

Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the leopard gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
petclubuk.com petclubuk.com

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