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Viper Boa Care (Candoia aspera aspera)

August 30th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Viper Boas are a wonderful species of snake to look at. They are very robust, with tough ‘keeled’ scales and an arrow like head. They are usually a fairly dull brown, although can be a wonderful bright red or orange. They do however, change colour with seasons, temperature and perhaps mood changes. I have had wonderful orangey specimens turn a dark brown with time. Nearly all Viper Boas are wild caught, in fact, I have not heard of any successful breeder who has bred and reared these. Gravid (pregnant) females are often imported and have their young in captivity. However, most of these die within 6 months for little or no apparent reason. In time, we can hopefully learn more about this species and successfully reproduce it in captivity. Viper Boas are fairly calm snakes, but when handled incorrectly can swipe from side to side with lighting speed. Although they are non-venomous, they have quite a nasty bite. Adult females can reach 80cm; males are less than half the size.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Viper Boa, a vivarium 60cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. This is a timid species; many specimens when bought into captivity can go for many months without feeding. It is important that this transitional period is as stress-free as possible. A small, confined enclosure with no added lighting, away from human ‘traffic’ may be needed. Once the boa is feeding on a regular basis, a larger vivarium with lighting may be offered.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for Viper Boas, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some , however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Viper Boa is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a larger enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Viper Boas are found on dense forest floors and are exposed to a fairly constant air temperature. They do not bask in the sun and so it is not as important to provide them with a dedicated hot spot. Instead, having a fairly constant air temperature of 85-90ºF during the day and 80-85ºF during the night is fine. A large water bowl should be offered for the snake to fully submerge if required. If your viper boa does this constantly, the vivarium is most probably too hot and should be cooled down slightly.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Viper Boa’s enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Viper Boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. Lighting for this species is not important. However, having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Viper Boas occur over much of New Guinea and surrounding Islands and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 80-90% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it’s skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Juveniles or males should be offered fuzzy or small mice, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult female viper boa should be fed on weaner rats. One of these every 2 weeks is ample. An adult male may take fuzzy rats or large mice. Juveniles should be fed on a regular basis, every 7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is higher than adults and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Viper Boas have a low metabolism compared to many snakes, they move very little and do not require the same quantity of food that many other species do. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake’s weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
petclubuk.com petclubuk.com

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Dog Fleas: The Basics and Beyond

August 23rd, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Dog fleas, like human fleas, are and are generally detrimental to the health of our pets. Dog fleas can also affect us humans and can feed off us. Removing dogs from the house, therefore, is not a healthy solution if ever one is having a major dog flea problem in the house. This would only cause the fleas to feed off us humans instead.

To understand the nature of dog fleas and their general effect on dogs, we must first have a general idea of what their nature is, how bad this problem can get, and what the appropriate medications are for such a problem.

Dog Fleas

Dog fleas, generally, are small in nature and even microscopic in some cases. They are similar to cat fleas in nature but they have different mechanisms. Dog fleas use their saliva to stop the dog from creating a defense mechanism – blood clotting. These are the nature of dog fleas that conspicuously infest dogs, but greater dangers actually arise from a single dog flea, as a single dog flea has to it a ratio of a thousand larvae or eggs scattered within the dog’s residence.

Signs of Infestation

The signs of infestation can be grouped into two general ideas: infestation on a dog, and in worse cases, infestation within a house. These infestations are manifested usually during summer, when a stray dog lingers around the house, or when a house has not been resided in for a long time. Similar to when a man scratches his head because of fleas, dogs usually scratch the area where a flea resides. This causes inflammation within the area and usually a small round pimple-like complication.

Prevention

Prevention is always better than medication, so it is best to prevent occurrences of dog flea infestations. A number of relatively easy ways can be done to prevent further aggravation of a dog flea problem. One of these is through the use of repellents. Some insecticides contain pyrethrins and permethrins that are of substantial use in repelling dog fleas. These insecticides, however, must never be sprayed directly on dogs and cats.

Another method is the use of proper sanitation. Animal on board must be subject to a flea bath, to effectively eradicate traces of fleas before they permanently reside inside our homes. Vacuuming carpets and other potential sources of dog flea eggs and larvae should also be done. Also, regular pet maintenance is required.

Treatment

Sometimes, the problem has reached its worse and in these cases, medication is necessary. In such cases, two products that are highly effective are available on the market. One of these is Frontline. This is an especially good treatment because it can be used on young dogs – even as young as 8 weeks old. This product works well, even when the dog has already been bathed and can last for as long as a month. Your dogs would not be irritated with this medication, as it is generally gentle and harmless.

Another good medication is Advantage. This, on the other hand, can be used for both cats and dogs, and has the distinct ability to kill fleas within a 12-hour period of time.

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Preventative Medicine is a Must for the Shih Tzu Show Dog

August 18th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

A Shih Tzu show dog kennel should practice preventive medicine as the means of maintaining optimum health. The Shih Tzu show dog must be available for showing for extended periods of time. Preventive medicine is much more practical and is kinder to the Shih Tzu.

The Shih Tzu show dog must have routine checks for and a strict maintenance of inoculations. Being in the show ring presents more chances of being exposed to disease germs. It is imperative that the Shih Tzu show dog that has been traveling from show to show be kept separate from the home crew once returning home. This can be compared to the older sister or brother who goes to school and brings home the chicken pox to all younger brothers and sisters. Extra precautions should be taken by the Shih Tzu show dog kennel to prevent possible spread of disease germs to the entire kennel and/or any Shih Tzu puppies for sale present among them.

Three very serious diseases to which all dogs are susceptible are:

1. Distemper

2. Hepatitis

3. Leptospirosis

These diseases are serious because they are frequently fatal. Fortunately, there are effective inoculations against all three.

Fleas and ticks are present in almost all parts of the country during warm weather. They are easy to pick up and sometimes quite difficult to get rid of, especially in the case of a long-coated Shih Tzu. Fleas and ticks also are capable of causing a dog to become infested with worms and sometimes diseases.

The simple rule to follow is to consult the veterinarian whenever there is the least question concerning the health of a Shih Tzu show dog. This is especially true in the case of the various diseases of the skin or conditions that result in seasonal irritants. These problems need to be treated promptly in order to prevent a chronic condition leading to the ruin of a Shih Tzu show dog coat, but is also detrimental to the over-all health of the Shih Tzu.

Toy Dogs, which include the Shih Tzu, have physical problems that are peculiar to them. The Toy dogs also have a few advantages over other certain classes of dogs. Many of the special problems affecting Toy dogs are the direct result of having been bred down to their present size. Toy dogs are actually a creation of man mainly for an amusing house pet.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She is publishes a FREE weekly newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Designer are offered on the website. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: stainglassshihtzus.com stainglassshihtzus.com

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Why is my Dog Scratching?

August 15th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Scratching is a common symptom in dogs, and a whole range of underlying causes can be responsible. If your dog is scratching, it is advisable to seek treatment as soon as possible, as self trauma can cause secondary injuries that may extend the duration, and cost, of treatment. So, if you have noticed your dog scratching, what should you do about it?

Firstly, ask yourself when was the last time I put anti-flea medication on him/her? Most spot-on flea products only provide protection for a month, so if it has been longer than this then you should re-apply the medication. Be aware that anti-flea products that are on sale in supermarkets and pet shops are general sales list products, and are not as effective as the products available from your veterinarian. However, Frontline? has recently been made available on general sale and so can be purchased without a prescription.

If flea treatment is up to date, with a reputable product, the next step is to rule out mites. Most anti-flea products do not kill mites. The most common type of mite infection in dogs is sarcoptic mange, also known as scabies. This mite causes an intensely itchy dermatitis that can also be transmitted to humans. It is often spread by foxes, so if you have many foxes in your area, this is one to be especially aware of. This is one you have to approach your veterinarian for. Scabies is diagnosed either by doing skin scrapes (using a scalpel blade to scrape debris from one of the affected areas, placing it on a microscope slide, staining it and examining it under a microscope) or via a blood test. Many vets though will choose to simply apply the appropriate drug and if the itchiness stops, a presumptive diagnosis is made. If your dog does have scabies, your vet might give a one off steroid injection to alleviate the itchiness in the short term until the anti-parasitic drug kicks in.

If external have been ruled out, the next step is to rule out a bacterial infection, a yeast infection or ringworm. Of these, only ringworm is potentially transmissible to humans. Ringworm is not actually a worm, but a type of fungus. It is usually tested for by examining the affected area with an ultraviolet light, which causes a certain type of ringworm spore to glow green. If ringworm is diagnosed, your vet will dispense either oral or topical medication to cure it. Bacterial infections are treated with a 2-3 week course of antibiotics, whereas yeast infections are usually treated with a medicated shampoo.

If , bacteria, yeasts and ringworm have all been ruled out then your pet probably has an allergy. This could be a food allergy, a contact allergy or an environmental (e.g. pollen) allergy. For further information on allergies in dogs, see my next article: “The Itchy Dog: is it an Allergy?”

Dr David Brooks is part of the online veterinary team at whydoesmypet.com” target=”_blank WhyDoesMyPet.com. Veterinarians, Vet Technicians, Nurses, Trainers, Behaviorists, Breeders and Pet Enthusiasts are here to answer your pet questions and concerns…
Our dedicated community of caring experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

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Ringworm Is The Common Dog Illness

August 1st, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

A common dog illness is ringworm and can be prevented and treated if your dog has the problem. Many illnesses affect dogs, some are very common and happen no matter how well cared for your dog is at any time. Dogs are creatures of the outside, and they can get into anything. Ringworm seems to be common in puppies and older dogs. Other common dog illness can be prevented with proper vaccinations and proper health care. Ringworm is a fungal infection that targets the overall health of the dog.

Diagnosis of Ringworm Infection
The common dog illness ringworm has several different ways to be detected and diagnose. The common way to detect ringworm is with a black light. The ringworms glow in the black light when the light hits them. Sometimes this practice does work and a vet will perform another test to detect ringworm.

Signs of Having Ringworm
If you see small areas of the body without hair, chances are your dog has ringworm. The skin will appear scaly and display pus in the area. After time the areas become larger when they receive no medical treatment. You will notice this parasite on the tail, head and legs.

Treating the Common Dog Illness Ringworm
If the health of the dog is healthy then the ringworm will clear up by itself in about four months. However, when severe cases exist, medical treatments are required. If your dog has the lesion, clipping the hair around the area is needed, but do not touch the lesion or it will spread. Apply a tropical anti fungal cream after clipping the hair away. Such creams like miconazole and lotrimin creams are used for this purpose. Do not let the dog lick the area where you apply the cream. A dog funnel collar may be required to prevent the dog from reaching the area.

If the cream alone does not work, antifungal shampoos and antifungal dips will benefit your dog and help the area to heal faster. Some other antifungal agents are griseofulvin and itraconazole, which work well on a dog.

Common Dog Illness Issues
Keeping your dog in perfect health and protected from bacterial, fungal and viral infections is your responsibility. The number one need of the dog is regular vaccines and proper care. Dogs need vaccines against rabies, parvovirus and distemper. Dogs also need to be checked yearly for heartworm, which can cause death to the dog if not properly prevented. Keep in mind that rabies vaccinations are given every two years and distemper vaccinations are received yearly.

Many conditions result in health problems and in some breeds of dogs, the breed is prone to more health problems then others. Joint problems and heart problems account for some of these more serious health problems. When looking for a dog, you need to be aware of some of the problems that can arise in a dog’s life. Besides the everyday and injuries from rough play, some dogs are prone to eye infections, ear infections and mange.

You can also find more info on aboutdoghealth.org/symptoms/diagnosis-for-dog-illness.html diagnose dog sickness symptoms and aboutdoghealth.org/doghealthproblems/common-dog-illness.html common dog illness problems. AboutDogHealth.org is a comprehensive resource to help dog owners identify their dog’s illness symptoms and treatment options.

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