Boa constrictors have always been a popular pet snake. Similar to Burmese Pythons in that they are considered a ‘friendly giant’ of the snake world. Luckily though, they do not quite reach the size of Burmese Pythons. Boa constrictors usually average 7-9feet in length, females being the larger of the sizes. They have been known however to reach 14feet in length, a formidable force for such a large bodied snake. Many sub-species of Boa constrictors are now recognized, most of which are smaller locality variants and should also be considered as good pet snakes. These variations make a good alternative if space is an issue.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Boa constrictor, a vivarium 2m Length x 0.9m Width x 1m Height is ample. These large constrictors are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved snake. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the boa. Juveniles should be offered a far smaller enclosure until you are confident they are comfortable with you, their surroundings and feed regularly.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Boa constrictors, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Boa constrictor is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Boa constrictors require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92ºF while the cool end should be approximately 80-84ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Boa constrictor’s enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes, if so, they should not be accessible to it.

Lighting

Boa constrictors are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Boa constrictors occur over much of Central and Northern South America and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it’s skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Boa constrictor should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every 2-3 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have given birth. A gravid female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after she has given birth, and for as long as possible after ovulation. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake’s weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
petclubuk.com petclubuk.com

Tags: aquarium, parasites, python, snake

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Tags: aquarium, parasites, python, snake

I recommend changing 20% of your aquarium water once per week (best) or at least 25% once per month (minimum). With good filtration and plants (live rock in marine aquaria), you often can go longer than once per week. Use a de-chlorinator such as Start Right or Prime (Prime also detoxifies ammonia and nitrites) while refilling your aquarium if tap water is used. All de-chlorinators work instantly usually comprised of Sodium Thiosulfate.
Please read more about cleaning frequency further in this article.

Steps:

*Make sure and wipe down the sides of the aquarium with an aquarium scrubber that is used ONLY for the aquarium to avoid contamination. Try and remove unsightly algae and especially any slime or mold (rinse this off in a sink)

*Use this time to change filter media that NEEDS changing, do NOT go overboard and change all media or you risk destroying your aquarium’s bacterial colonies needed for removal of ammonia, nitrites, ECT. HOB filters should have a second filter cartridge either in the filter or in the water column of the aquarium to allow for bacteria to form on this new cartridge before replacing the old one. If your HOB Filter has a sponge, bio grid (such as a VitaLife HOB filter, or bio wheel; you only need to rinse these off in de-chlorinated tap or used tank water and there is no need to prepare a second cartridge before changing the old one.

*At this point you should change your water using a gravel vacuum, siphon, or similar method. For more about methods of water change, please read further in this article.

Frequency (Expanded);
Use these factors to determine frequency:

*Type of fish, such as fish that naturally produce more waste (partly
do to the type of food they eat) such as goldfish where one fish per 8
gallons is better. Also a large and dirty fish such as an Oscar is another good example.

*Filtration, a properly filtered aquarium (good bio filtration, good mechanical filtration, and good circulation) with multiple filters is important.

*Well maintained water chemistry (including kH and Redox)

*After proper feeding, good cleaning routines (20% water changes with a gravel vacuum once per week or two), proper feeding routines, good filtrations; If after all these are checked off and you still have nitrates that struggle to stay below 40-50 ppm
(20 ppm for saltwater), you probably need to change more water or increase frequency and/or efficiency (especially if there are live plants!). Also a kH and pH that starts out at proper levels, but then drops quickly after water changes and/or addition of stabilizing chemicals or products such as Wonder Shells can indicate poor cleaning routines (as well as other problems such as mulm buildup).

For more about nitrates and the aquarium nitrogen cycle:
americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html” target=”_blank Nitrogen Cycle and Aquarium Cycling; How the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Works

For cleaning your aquarium (freshwater or saltwater) a Gravel Vacuum attached to a siphon or re-circulating filter works best. If you have a planted aquarium, I recommend #00 sand (3-5 cm) mixed with americanaquariumproducts.com/Substrate.html” target=”_blank Azoo Plant Grower Bed, Eco-Complete, laterite or conditioned soil with #3 gravel (2-3 cm) on top. You should not vacuum the sand, as this will tend to be sucked all the way thru the vacuum, and this will also disturb the natural aerobic and symbiotic anaerobic filtration going on in the substrate being performed by the plant roots and nearby bacteria.
If the sand must be vacuumed, very gently push the bell of the vacuum into the sand and quickly back out, kinking the hose with your other hand to slow the out flow to keep sand from being sucked up.
You can drain this water into a bucket or attach the siphon to a long hose and drain it outside or into a toilet using gravity.
There are other products that hook on to the sink, but these are over rated in my opinion and waste water. It is simpler to just get a long hose and get an adapter and attach your hose to the sick to fill, but drain your water into a garden where it will do some good (unless it is saltwater of coarse). If you do need this type of product you can make a DIY model with a Lee’s Gravel Vac, a garden hose, a faucet adapter from a local Hardware Store, and a water bed pump/drain. Lee’s also makes one that is less expensive than the Python and is exactly the same.

I prefer to leave the fish in during this process, as I feel more stress is added to the fish removing them and then placing the fish back in new water conditions that the fish are not accustomed to. Add water back slowly, and if tap water is used make sure the temperature is similar to the aquarium water already present in the aquarium, you can generally safely add warm tap water to correct this. Although in the Marine aquariums I maintained, I brought my own water and it was invariably colder than the aquarium, but this does not present as much of a problem as many think. If you do some math; Say your aquarium is 78 F and you add 20% water back that is 68 F, that is 1/5th the volume, so 1/5th of a 10 F difference is only 2 F.
What is more important is adding a de-chlorinator to your tap water (if tap water is used) WHILE the water is being added. I prefer Start Right, this product removes chlorine (and the chlorine ions attached ammonia in chloramines), removes heavy metals, and very importantly naturally stimulates the slime coat in fish vs. products that drop an artificial wad of slime into the aquarium that generally sinks to the bottom anyway.

In some successful aquarium keeping traditions (especially in Germany), no vacuuming is performed. Water is simply siphoned out of the aquarium and new water is carefully added back in. For this method to be successful in fresh water aquariums, you need a healthy growth of plants, good lighting, a thin layer of sand just enough to cover plant roots (not gravel). Good aerobic filtration is also a must.

Other methods include powered gravel vacuums such as the Aquarium Cleaning Machine

For my full article, please follow the link in my resource box:

By Carl Strohmeyer

americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_cleaning.html americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_cleaning.html

Tags: aquarium, heel, python, tap water

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Tags: aquarium, heel, python, tap water

When you decided to own a pet python, every detail about your pet is invaluable in making sure your pet is healthy and comfortable. Python owners, like owners of other pets, are usually keen to provide everything their pet needs.

To keep both the owner and the pet happy, in this article, I focus on the habitat of pythons and what needs to be done when they are reared as pets in an artificial environment. Many pythons suffer silently if they don’t get a warm, cozy place to live in that approximates their natural habitat in a few important ways.

So how can you rear python in a friendly setting? What type of habitat should you provide? How do you get your pet to enjoy your company?

Your Python’s Cage Size:

Python husbandry begins with getting a proper cage: One that is the right size, has proper lighting and ventilation, facilitates humidity and temperature control and is absolutely secure.

Choosing the right size is critical. Too small, and the animal will feel cramped. Too big, and the animal can feel stressed.

How to tell?

There are basically two types of pythons … those that live on land, and those that live on the branches of trees.

If your python is predominantly terrestrial, the rule of thumb for its cage size is that the perimeter (distance measured all the way around the cage) should be at least TWICE the length of the snake, and the ratio of the length to width should be 3 to 2.

For example, a 5 foot (1.5 meter) python would require at least a 10 foot perimeter cage … applying the 3: 2 ratio, that would mean a minimum cage size of 3′ x 2′.

A 10 foot python would require a 20 foot perimeter … 6′ x 4′ cage would be the minimum.

Complexity of the Cage:

Most Pythons do very well in a simple cage. All require a water bowl and some sort of hiding place. And the water bowl must be disinfected regularly, since the python may have unwittingly used it as a bathroom.

Material the Cage is Made From:

Cages are made of different materials like acrylic, plywood, melamine and compressed shelving board. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

Acrylic .. strong, transparent, and light weight. Pliable and easy to clean. The only disadvantage is its higher cost

Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) and High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) also make excellent cage materials, … but can also be very expensive.

Plywood can also be expensive, but you can select a 2nd grade material to reduce your costs.

Melamine is generally the material of choice for python owners. They are good looking, & less expensive, …but HEAVY! (So it’s kind of hard to move … a trade-off most people are willing to live with given the lower fees).

Bedding/Substrate:

Pythons need a substrate. Newspaper is the easiest and most cost effective solution. (There are other options).

The Door:

What about the door?

You can have a transparent thick glass sliding door or opaque glassed solid door. Your choice

Keep two cages:

Ideally you would have 2 cages so that when one is cleaned, the python could be in the other one. Also ensure that your cage has a good interior coating.

Ventilation is very important:

Arrange to have near perfect ventilation for your pet cage. Good ventilation gives fresh air and lighting inside the cage, and is a strong component in keeping your python healthy and happy.

Rubber coated wire mesh is generally the most commonly chosen material. It’s important to get the rubber coated variety … the non-coated mesh will hurt your python’s nose when it tries to test the boundaries of the cage

Wooden and plastic pegboards also provide good ventilating materials.

Heating:

One of the primary causes of python respiratory problems is improper cage temperature. So not only will you need heating arrangements in your cage, but you’ll also need to be able to easily monitor it from outside.

The right choice of a temperature system will help your python to stay healthy. There are several commercially available options, from low cost to high cost.

Heat panels are ideal for larger snakes. They cost more, but last longer. (Make sure to monitor the temperature closely when you use them … they are very effective).

Heat tapes are good also, but you have to be very careful to insulate the wiring, or you can electrocute your snake

Heat emitters (light bulbs that emit no light!) are good for pythons that are only active during the day …but are used less frequently.

Heat lamps are great for arboreal pythons. When you provide them at the top of the cage it helps them relax while coiled around a branch.

Heat rocks are not really recommended because of reports of thermal burns to pythons, and sometimes electrical shocks.

Lighting:

There is still a debate about lighting the python cages. It is argued that pythons do not require any artificial lighting as most of them shy away from it.

If you’re going to use lighting, though, I recommend low watt fluorescent lights for the cage. But please remember to shield ANY lighting you use … serious injury to your pet can result otherwise.

Since your pet Python will be spending almost all the time in its cage, it’s a very important to know more about ‘Python Housing” as this will help you get started.

The above is an excerpt from the free newsletter on “Python Secrets” published by Geostar Publishing & Services LLC.

To subscribe to the newsletter, click on the link below:

pythonsecrets.com pythonsecrets.com

Here’s to a happier pet-owing experience!

Jessica Harrison
Geostar Publishing & Services LLC
6423, Woodbine Court,
St. Louis, Missouri,
63109, USA

pythonsecrets.com pythonsecrets.com
pythonsecrets.com/gallery pythonsecrets.com/gallery

Jessica Harrison is the author of the best selling eBook “Python Secrets” published by Geostar Publishing & Services LLC.

Tags: python, snake

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Tags: python, snake

This is a question that has been asked of me and a thousand (million?) other herp keepers. I think it’s almost a case of once bitten, twice as determined. But seriously, it is something I have pondered but not really found an adequate answer for. They are not cute and cuddly. They bite (when young), they feel cold (not really) and they have funny eyes. And scales.

As a little tacker I was always into animals – frogs, lizards, tadpoles, butterflies, beetles, spiders – you name it, I went looking for it.

I don’t think I ever got over it. It’s hard to explain to people who do not have a fascination with animals, what the attraction is. It’s just there. I think most people actually have it but for a variety of reasons they do not act upon it or ignore it.

Snakes are particularly intriguing. The way they move, the way the eat, the way their metabolism is so brilliantly attuned to the particular environment they inhabit, their ancestry, the development of venoms so potent that that can kill in minutes, all of these things interest me and make me want to know more about them.

There is some part of you that has to overcome a natural fear in the first instance to want to own and keep a reptile. For some reason, I’m not sure if it’s instinct, we fear snakes and many reptiles. Witness a small child when you show them a snake. They instantly recoil. It’s only when you show them that they have nothing to fear that they can then ‘pet’ the snake and overcome their own fears (well, as long as it’s not venomous).

Where I live, every snake is venomous. There is no such thing as a snake that is not dangerous. Copperheads, red-bellied black snakes, mainland tiger snakes and eastern brown snakes all inhabit my local area, so it’s understandable that people fear them. We have no pythons or non-venomous snakes in my area. Just the other day one of the painters doing my house remarked to me that he nearly leapt out of his skin when he saw what looked to be a snake in the grass near where he was painting. It turns out it was a blue tongued lizard, but nonetheless, his fear was well grounded. Living in the area makes you wary of snakes.

I think this is somewhat unfortunate. Snakes are more scared of you. How big you must appear to a snake. Standing still when you see one will prevent an attack. They only attack when threatened. Slowly backing off is also a good thing to do.

So why keep them? I think it is a duality of fear and fascination. And the trouble is that once you have one, you want two, and then three etc. If you have them, you know the feeling.

Another aspect is the actual act of managing to keep an animal that is not naturally suited or normally kept as a pet in an artificial environment. Learning about its needs, how to maintain optimal health, how to breed it, how to ‘tame’ it and how to enjoy it for what it is. These are challenges that herp keeping offers that few other pets do.

Mark Chapple is the Author of “How to build enclosures for reptiles”
Find out how to build snake and other reptile cages as well as arboreal cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.

reptile-cage-plans.com reptile-cage-plans.com

Tags: python, reptile cages, snake

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Tags: python, reptile cages, snake

Royal pythons have become an extremely popular pet snake, particularly in the last decade. With the proper care, the reward of keeping these beautiful snakes is enormous, but I would like to stress that many individual specimens can be very fussy feeders. For that reason alone I believe this species is not an ideal beginners snake.

Royal Pythons are one of the most common snake species seen in Rescue Centres around the UK. The reason for this, is that most of the royal pythons bought each year are either wild caught or captive farmed individuals. Captive farming is when gravid or ‘pregnant’ females are captured and then kept in captivity until they lay their eggs. The females are then usually released and the eggs are incubated. The babies are then exported. Very rarely will they be fed until they reach their destination. Importers and wholesalers of reptiles have become better over the years, and will feed the babies several times before they are sold. Many however, are sold without ever having a meal. Being virtually from the wild, they have very strong basic instinct, and taking dead mice as prey is not something they will be used to. I hope the following care sheet will help guide you through the right steps in caring for your royal python.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Royal python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure, especially for royal pythons. The reason for this, is that they are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it’s safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. If however, your royal python is behaving normally and feeds regularly; trying a larger enclosure can only be a good thing. Providing the snake does all this, than bigger is better.

Hatchling royal pythons should be placed into a smaller enclosure. It should be no longer than the length of the snake, and must have at least two hiding areas. When the snake is first purchased, it is a good idea to cover over the cage with something dark. This will keep the snake as stress free as possible. This can then be removed once the snake has eaten its first meal.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult royal python is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Royal pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 78-80ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 78-80º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a royal python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Royal Pythons are native to North Africa. The humidity is important for this species, but an overly high, constant humidity will cause problems. A 30-50% humidity should be offered, although perhaps raising it slightly when coming up to a slough will aid in shedding it’s skin properly. This can be achieved by slightly misting the enclosure.

Feeding

Hatchling Royal Pythons are capable of feeding on rat pups or small mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item the same size as the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling royal pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two weeks, and a larger rat should be offered.

Royal pythons can be incredibly fussy feeders. Many are wild caught or captive farmed, which is often the result of their tricky feeding habits. In my experience, the one trick that works most the time to get them feeding, is to heat up the food item and offer the food using the ‘tease’ feed method. Please refer to our ‘Problematic Snake Feeding Page’ for more detailed information on how to get your Royal Python feeding.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.

Tags: aquarium, parasites, python, python care, python regius, snake

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Tags: aquarium, parasites, python, python care, python regius, snake