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Understanding Animal Movement

January 26th, 2012 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

There are an astounding number of ways in which animals move on the land, in the air and in water.

Land-dwelling mammals can to walk, run and jump. Salamanders, turtles and lizards also walk, but are often said to crawl. Termites and ants are among the many insects that walk a great deal too. Grasshoppers and crickets jump, but they also walk about slowly when they are eating. Even flying birds must be able to walk or hop on land. The garden snail produces a watery liquid that serves as a private lake. This snail rolls through this lake by contracting muscles that move its skin. This is also another form of animal movement on land.

Many animals live in the ground and must get from place to place. Moles and other burrowing animals dig their way through the earth rapidly with shovel-like legs. Earthworms often eat their way through. When the soil is loose, they push through it in the same way that they move on the surface of the ground. A worm also moves about by digging into the ground and making itself longer and then shorter. In this way it pulls itself ahead.

Several other animals fly through the air to transport themselves. Others, like flying squirrels, flying frogs, flying fish and flying lizards do not really fly but instead glide through the air. The best gliders are the flying fish that leap from the water with such force that they can glide as far as 50 yards.

A true flying animal has the ability to propel itself through the air by beating its wings against the air. Only four groups of animals have produced species that can truly fly: they are the bats, the birds, the insects and the flying reptiles that died out with the dinosaurs. Each group has its own kind of wing design and aerodynamics. However, the wings of bats, birds and flying reptiles are alike in having bones. An insect’s wing, like an insect’s body, has no bones at all. The veins that strengthen its wing are really air tubes with strong walls.

A great many animals also live in the water, primarily because there is much more room for them than on land. Mammals, such as dolphins and whales, live only in the water. Many birds do a great deal of paddling about in the water. Reptiles, like turtles and amphibian animals, like frogs, can also live half their lives in a body of water. But most of the swimming animals belong to the class of fishes. The movement of a fish’s tail fin helps propel a fish through the water. Yet many fish can still swim even if most of the tail fin is a bitten or cut off.

They can push themselves through the water by twisting their bodies from side to side. Some fish can also move forward or backward by means of their side fins. Other animals move through the water by jet propulsion. Squids and cuttlefish suck water into their bodies and then it out. This shoots them forward. Jellyfish also swim by jet propulsion. They open their jelly umbrellas and then rapidly close them. When the stream of water gets out, the jellyfish is pushed forward. Many tiny animals row themselves through water. They have tiny hairs called cilia which act as oars. Other tiny creatures have whiplike threads with which they pull themselves forward.

There are still more curious ways in which animals move. Some ride from place to place on other animals, like the remora fish. It fastens itself onto sharks or other big fish so that when the sharks kill another fish, the remora frees itself to go after a part of the meal.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to animals-guide.com/ Animals

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Dog Training: To Punish Or Not To Punish

January 24th, 2012 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Punishment is a controversial subject in , though it is widely used by both traditional and positive trainers.

The most common punishment is positive punishment. It consists in stopping an undesired behavior by adding an unpleasant thing or situation. Therefore, leash tugs are positive punishments.

On the other hand, negative punishment consists in stopping an undesired behavior by removing a pleasant thing or situation. Thus, you would be applying negative punishment if you remove a food treat or a toy from your dog’s sight.

Positive punishment is widely used by traditional trainers and seldom used by positive trainers. Negative punishment is mostly used by positive trainers and seldom used by traditional trainers.

Typical positive punishers in are: a pinch from the prong collar, an unpleasant and perhaps painful sensation when the choke chain closes, the “No” command, water squirts on the dog’s face, loud sounds produced by objects thrown near the dog, electric shocks produced by electric collars and electric fences, etc.

Typical negative punishers in are: ignoring your dog, a food treat removed from the scene, a toy removed from the scene, the end of a game, the end of a walk, stopping the walk when the dog pulls the leash, etc.

Although punishment is so widely used to train dogs, even in positive training, most trainers are not aware of its risks and limitations. Both positive and negative punishments could produce collateral adverse effects which include stress, anxiety and a reduction of learning abilities. Besides, when used too often, punishments could also lead to shyness and/or aggression. Of course, negative punishment tend to have less (or at least less intense) adverse effects.

Another disadvantage of punishment is that it has no long term effects. While you can use punishment to stop your dog from doing an unwanted behavior, this does not ensure that the behavior’s frequency will be reduced. Punished behaviors tend to be maintained when the punishment is not applied frequently. That is the reason why prong, choke and electric collars are used even on dogs that have already being trained.

Despite the short term span of punishment, punished behaviors’ frequency seems to be reduced in dogs that have been trained in such way. However, this usually is an erroneous interpretation because those behaviors don’t appear when the punisher (maybe the trainer) is present. Then, after the punisher has been removed, the frequency of those behaviors tends to increase again.

It is very easy to see what I explained in the previous paragraph. Just look for a traditional trained dog which has not been trained by his owner. The dog will work perfectly when the trainer is present but stop working when the trainer is absent. Therefore, you can infer that the dog experiences some kind of anxiety when the trainer is present, because that man is somehow associated with punishment.

This does not mean that traditional trainers are cruel or violent. Of course there are stupid and cruel guys who call themselves trainers, but most traditional trainers can train dogs that obey happily and without fear. However, to achieve this level of training while using punishment and negative reinforcement, you must be very experienced. It is not easy to become a good traditional dog trainer.

A similar situation occurs when using negative punishment. For instance, you can stop your dog from jumping on you just by ignoring him when that behavior is displayed. However, it takes just one reinforcing episode (giving attention to your dog when he jumps on you) to take back the unwanted behavior. Even worst, it is very likely that the jumping behavior will be strengthened by that reinforcing episode, so you will need much more time to retrain your dog.

Ok, at this point it seems that this article is just an anti-punishment propaganda. Please believe me, it is not such thing. Punishment could be useful to train animals, which has been proven by scientific studies on experimental psychology. However, it could also have really big drawbacks.

So, if you are thinking to use punishment to train your dog, please don’t rely only on reading about it. Call an expert and ask him/her to teach you the proper way to use punishments. And please don’t believe the false statement that “choke chains, prong collars and electric collars are not punishing devices, but corrective ones”. They are punishers. Therefore, if you are going to use those devices to train your dog, learn it from an expert.

On the other hand, you have a lot of alternatives to train your dog without punishment. There are several proven methods to stop your dog from doing unwanted behaviors without using punishment: training an incompatible behavior, putting the unwanted behavior on command, reinforcing every behavior except the undesired one, changing the motivation, etc.

Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. The dog-training-tutorial.com” target=”_new Dog Training Tutorial, his website at dog-training-tutorial.com www.dog-training-tutorial.com, provides objective and reliable information on and behavior.

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De-Clawing - A Cruel Act of Mutilating Cats

November 29th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

De-clawing is physically and emotionally maiming cats. Case studies have shown that de-clawing is a cruel act of mutilating animals that result to the de-clawed animal becoming lame, not to mention developing arthritis, depression and a host of other long-term complications. Any way you look at it, de-clawing cats is inhumane. In fact, many countries consider de-clawing illegal. In the United States, however, self-serving cat owners practice this cruel act.

More than Just Trimming the Toenails

De-clawing is not a simple matter of trimming the cat’s toenails. It is a form of surgery that involves amputating the toe bones at the end of a cat’s paws. The whole procedure requires a post-operative period of recovery that is quite different from what human surgical patients go through. After all, feline patients don’t usually have the comfort of a hospital bed, bed pan or wheelchairs.

What they do have are litter boxes, and the pet owner’s place in which to stay as they regain the use of their feet — a process that is not without pain, to say the least, since cats can’t resist walking, jumping and scratching. These self-sufficient animals would rather hide their pain than be helpless. But they may also begin to exhibit untoward behavior to cope with their discomfort, putting your furniture and other property at risk of damage.

A De-clawed Cat is a Vulnerable and Hostile Cat

A de-clawed cat, once back in his litter box, will not be able to dig properly. Thus, he may wander off to other places where he can pee: on the living room carpet, the cupboard or by the door. Many cat owners discover that scratches on the drywall or floorboard are much easier to deal with than cat urine, which can penetrate deeply.

De-clawing a cat deprives him of one of his primary means of defense, rendering him vulnerable to threats from unfriendly animals or, worse, predators, should he ever step outside the house unaccompanied. The loss of claws also invariably impairs mobility and balance orientation. The sense of insecurity this engenders sometimes leads to hostility and aggressive behavior that may be directed at people, including the pet owner. Remember, the de-clawed cat still has his sharp teeth with which to bite human flesh!

Mutilation in the First Degree

Claws naturally endow cats with fearsome grace, and removing the claws can indeed be crippling. Drastically altering the structure of these elegant animal parts is mutilation of the first order. Even the most insensitive cat owner will balk at the idea of de-clawing their wards if the appropriate but horrible-sounding word “amputate” were used to describe the practice. The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) is unequivocally opposed to de-clawing as a way of correcting feline “vices,” describing it as a disfigurement that offers convenience to people but only sufferings for the cat.

Alternatives to De-clawing

* If you do not want your cat clawing on your furnishings or scratching his claws on any part of your house, temporarily protect these areas with duct tape or aluminum foil. Cats typically are averse to scratching these surfaces.

* While you are training your cat, you can him with water, blow a whistle or make loud noises whenever he claws or scratches on something that you do not want him to.

* Trim your cat’s toenails regularly.

* Get your cat a few scratching posts and place them in designated areas in the house. You can train your cat to use his claws on these scratching posts instead of using them on your furniture. Other cat furniture can serve the same purpose, like cat condos, pet steps, etc.

There’s one product I won’t hesitate to recommend in case you have met with less success in training your , or obtained your pet already a fully grown adult. This is the Soft Paws vinyl nail cap to keep furniture from being scratched by feline claws. Developed by a veterinarian, this product falls off as the cat’s nails grow, to be replaced by a new one. A possible drawback is that it may keep your from enjoying the act of clambering up his post.

You may also want to buy scratching posts or acecatfurniture.com cat furniture from your local pet supplies retailer. I have used these materials extensively around the house since my cat Ace was a . He enjoys clawing on them so much that pawing any of the chairs and sofas has probably never occurred to him!

Clawing- A Natural Part of Cat Behavior

Scratching with claws is one way cats mark their turf. This is accomplished through glands beneath their paws that secrete a distinctive scent. The pulling and stretching of muscles in cats’ front quarters when they scratch also serves as a form of exercise that helps to keep them fit. This facility for clawing is such a natural part of these felines’ behavior that taking it away from them amounts to one of the more cruel forms of deprivation.

David Lee is owner and designer of Ace Cat Furniture and Ace Cat Health web sites. See his sites for more information on cat health like, acecathealth.com/cat_fleas.html cat flea control , or acecathealth.com/cat_disease_leukemia.html cat leukemia

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No-Fail Solutions For Solving The Top 5 Dog Behavior Problems

October 7th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

How To Curb Excessive Barking In Your Dog:

Dog barks as its way of communication to the world. Your dog may bark to seek attention from you or as a warning when it senses non-pack members intruding its territory.

However excessive barking can irritate and cause both children and adults to shy away from your beloved canine. Therefore, training your dog not to bark is of utmost importance.

Do ignore your dog when he/she goes into a barking fit for no apparent reason as any attention will reinforce the behavior. Praise your dog when he becomes quiet.
Do use a gun to spray water on your dog if excessive barking persists. This is to disrupt its behavior and your dog will associate barking as an unpleasant experience.
Do praise and reward your dog immediately after it stops barking and not ten minutes after. Your dog will not understand the reason for the discipline.
Do use an anti bark collar for further training whenever you are not around and your dog is not fully train yet so as to be thoughtful to thy neighbors.

How To Overcome Aggressive Behavior In Your Dog:

Dogs are social animals and not naturally aggressive. The cause for a dog that is aggressive is usually due to an ignorant or aggressive owner who cultivates this behavior through wrong training methods or abuse.

If your dog shows traits of aggressiveness, correction training must be implemented as soon as possible to prevent and curb your dog aggressive behavior.

Do socialize your dog frequently with as many people as possible. Dogs that are constantly chained or enclosed will increase the fear and anxiety of your dog thereby leading to more aggressiveness.
Do watch out for negative actions from other dogs (violent barking and physical attacks) that might further influence your dog.
Do play and exercise your dog regularly as a happy and contented dog is less likely to be aggressive.
Do use only firm voice command to correct any misbehavior and not physical correction.
Do practice and establish alpha leadership training with your aggressive dog so that it can have the proper guidance and understanding who the head of the pack is.
Do consult your vet if aggressive behavior is unusual. Your dog might have a health problem.

How to Discourage Your Dog Jumping Behavior:

Why do dogs jump? Jumping occurs mainly when the dog is excited by your homecoming, or visits by friends it considers as part of the family pack. It is their way of greeting.

Dogs also jump because they were never probably train before and it has always resulted in increased attention.

While small toy dogs will not pose too big a problem, bigger dogs may frighten and overpower a child or adult, causing injury. Therefore, a dog with a jumping habit should be discouraged and properly corrected.

Do discourage your dog by not patting him when he jumps on you during homecoming. Instead fold both your arms and look away till he calms down.
Do raise one of your knees and give a stern “Down” command if there is persistent jumping. As a reflex action, your dog will usually stop and back away.
Do learn to teach your dog the basic “Sit”, “Stay” and “Down” command to address the problem.
Do be consistent, repeating the process and praising your dog when he no longer jumps.

How To Deal With Your Dog Chewing Fetish?

What can you do when your dog has an oral fixation and chew on things that he/she shouldn’t be chewing on?

Do use bitter spray and apply them to objects such as your shoe to deter your dog from chewing on things he shouldn’t be chewing or biting on.
Do crate train your dog if your dog has a habit to chew up items in the house while you are out.

How To Deal With Your Dog Biting and Nipping Behavior Problem:

Puppies and dogs bite and nip for a variety of reasons especially so during exploration and play. Puppy also tends to bite when they are teething. Adult dogs might nip when they are excited or bite when they are threatened.

Do encourage and reward your dog when it bites the right object; discourage by simply saying a firm “No” and replace the object with the correct toy or training equipment.
Do use the “Time Out” method to discourage your dog from nipping or biting; call out a “No” firmly and walk out of a room with the door close for 30 seconds to help your dog understand your expectances for undesirable bites.
Do have your dog muzzled in crowded places if necessary and allowed for more human contact for further training. This also helps to subdue dogs that have a tendency to bite and nip frequently.

Lee Tuan James is a member of the Dog Training Classroom team ( dogtrainingclassroom.com dogtrainingclassroom.com). Stay in touch with more interesting tips, news and updates on by subscribing to dogtrainingclassroom.com/dog-training-news.html” target=”_new Dog Training News.

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How to Train Cats

October 6th, 2011 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Uncategorized

Training cats is like juggling three balls made of Jello or sorting wet noodles by hand; they go off in all directions at once. There are ways to indicate what you want them to do or refrain from doing, but the results depend a lot on the willingness and intelligence of the cats.

Of course, you don’t ever want to hit them and any correction must be done at the very moment of the infraction or the cats won’t make the connection and will be bewildered about what you want. One approach is to make a noise of disapproval just as the cat is where you don’t want it to go; as it is just getting there. I have found that they respond to a hissing sound. I start with a quiet “ssssssssss” then gradually increase the loudness. Clapping hands once is startling and effective. Nothing will be very effective the first time, but after a while the cats, if they are smart enough, will recognize that certain places and actions are not allowed. That doesn’t mean they won’t try to go there, but they will be looking out for signs of disapproval. It is also true that they may get used to certain behaviors on your part and ignore them when earlier they would find them startling.

I have a smart cat (for a cat) and another one whose brainpower may be limited. The latter cannot learn or will not obey. I haven’t figured out whether she is just dumb or simply willful. I have learned to accommodate her for the most part, but will still insist that she not play with or chew wiring and stay on her side of the kitchen counter. I do this mostly with a gun. The water is harmless (except to books and papers) and after a few squirts, the cats respond to the sound of my picking it up; they dash for the hills, (the bedroom).

One of the biggest problems with cats is scratching. People used to solve this problem by de-clawing the cats. It is still done but is much frowned upon by humane societies since it is very painful for the cats and has been compared to cutting off the first knuckles of a person’s hands. Most people these days keep their cats inside because of the danger of the cat picking up rabies or other diseases by catching infected mice. A de-clawed cat that accidentally gets outside is helpless without claws.

I have several scratching boards and cylinders which the cats use regularly. They can hide inside or scratch on the outside. I trim their claws regularly; just the tips. They have done very little damage with their claws.

Ultimately you will have to realize that the cats are limited and you will have to adapt to their peculiarities. Just think of them as teen-aged humans covered with ever-falling fur.

Jack Wilson is a writer and artist in Tempe, Arizona:

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