A BAN on tail docking does not enjoy the “overwhelming support of the public”, despite what vets and some animal welfare groups say. A new poll shows that a clear majority of the public think the docking of working dogs should be allowed to continue. Meanwhile a senior vet has said that he believes “there is a welfare case for the docking of working dogs’ tails”.

MPs will vote on a ban on tail docking, which is only carried out by vets, at the Report Stage of the Animal Welfare Bill on 8th March.

The poll, carried out by ORB* for the Countryside Alliance, shows that just 39% of people think that the docking of working dogs should be banned. The survey asked:

Typically a vet may dock (shorten) a dog’s tail when the dog is young for two reasons - one is for cosmetic reasons (i.e. to enter the dog into a competition), the other is for working dogs (such as police dogs and working spaniels) to prevent serious tail injuries to them. Which of the following would you prefer?

Banning this procedure for all types of dogs: 36%
Banning this procedure for working dogs: 3%
Total - banning for working dogs: 39%
Banning this procedure for cosmetic reasons: 34%
None of these - this procedure should be allowed to continue: 27%

At present the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons’ (RCVS) guidance on this issue accepts that docking may be permissible if it is for therapeutic or truly prophylactic reasons. The College suggests that it is for Parliament to decide how to interpret this in law.

John Parker JP MA VetMB FRCVS, last year’s President and now Senior Vice-President of the RCVS, is not convinced by the need for a complete ban. He says: “As a countryman and a vet who has seen injuries to working dogs’ tails I have docked all of the many working dogs I have bred. I personally believe that there is a welfare case for the docking of working dogs’ tails. I am not satisfied there is ever a justification for cosmetic docking.

“In my view, the best way forward would be to remove all the conjecture, anecdotal evidence and emotion that have clouded this debate and conduct a proper scientific investigation into the welfare consequences of banning the docking of working dogs”.

However, a proposal was due to be put to the RCVS’s Council at its meeting on Thursday of this week (2nd March) that it should support a ban on all except therapeutic docking. This would be subject to review after five years, in the light of a scientific review of evidence of the incidence of tail injuries in working dogs during this period. The College expects a lively debate as strong personal views are held by veterinary surgeons on both sides.

Meanwhile, the Council of Docked Breeds (CDB) welcomed the Countryside Alliance’s publication of the independent poll which clearly shows that the majority of the general public do not want a ban on tail docking.

“The vote is split fairly evenly” said Peter Squires, President of the CDB.
“Close on one third want the status quo to remain, another third support the option for just working dogs and only 36% want a complete ban.

“Considering that the public have been bombarded with hysterical misinformation from the RSPCA, two thirds of the public supporting the continuation of tail docking is a remarkable result in our favour.

“I hope that our politicians take note that these results reflect the wishes of their constituents and that with over 1 million docked dogs in the UK, tail docking is not a matter affecting just a few of them, and one which needs careful consideration based on fact not hearsay, before they vote on the Animal Welfare Bill on March 8th”.

* ORB interviewed a nationally representative sample of 1,003 adults aged 18 throughout England, Scotland and Wales between 10th - 12th February 2006. ORB is a member of the British Polling Council and abides by its Code of Conduct.

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When to Euthanize:

1. Do you have a reasonable diagnosis for your fish?

As hobbyists, we rarely have access to scientific equipment to help us determine a diagnosis for our sick fish. Most of us aren’t fortunate enough to have a microscope or other necessities to distinguish between bacterial, viral or parasitic infections. In most cases, we make assumptions based on probability. If your fish has a bloated abdomen and the scales are protruding, it is reasonable to assume he has Dropsy, which is rarely curable in tropical fish like Bettas. The degradation of the fish can be quick or slow with Dropsy and the final stages often leave the fish helpless and gasping at the bottom of the tank. Utilize your recourses to come up with a diagnosis. You can try books, the internet, your LFS staff or other hobbyists.

2. Have you exhausted your treatment options?

Few diseases are as straight forward as Dropsy and many can be easily cured with good water conditions and inexpensive over the counter aquarium fish medications. As a pet owner, it is your responsibility to treat your sick fish appropriately. Once you come up with a reasonable diagnosis, treatment is a two part process. First, discover and fix the cause. (Poor water quality is often the culprit) Secondly, treat the illness itself. (antibiotics, antiparasitics, temperature control, etc.) Treatments can take time and effort and let’s not forget that the fish’s own immune system will work to combat disease as well. Most common fish illnesses ARE curable.

3. Does your fish still have the will to live?

Ok, this can be a little tricky to determine. My personal recommendation, take it or leave it, is if the fish tries to allude capture he still has the will to live. If he tries to swim away when you go to net him, then he is still utilizing his fight / flight response. If the fish allows you to scoop him up, he may be too far gone to save. Still, this isn’t 100% confirmation that the fish should be euthanized. I personally have had a Betta splendens that was so sick you could scoop him up with your hand, but because I was too squeamish to euthanize him my only option was to treat for the illness and wait until he succumbed. Remarkably, the Betta recovered fully and lived another year and a half. On the other hand, there have been many that I have been unable to save. This is ultimately your judgment call. Consider the physical state of the fish, the suspected illness and the age of the fish. A two year old Betta may recover fine and live for another two years. A 5 year old Betta is already nearing the end of his natural lifecycle.

How to Humanely Euthanaize a Fish

There area several methods for aquarium fish euthanization frequently utilized by hobbyists but only a handful are considered humane. Unfortunately, some of the methods previously considered humane have decidedly been determined not to be so. Here are a few methods considered to be a safe and humane method for euthanizing fish.

1. MS 222 [Tricaine methanesulfonate]:

MS 222 is frequently used as anesthetic and a sedative for aquatic animals but in larger concentrations is the preferred method for euthanizing aquarium fish. It is approved by the FDA and considered humane by the American Veterinary Medical Association. It can be purchased through your vet or online. A bath with 250 mg of MS 222 per liter of water is adequate. The fish should be bathed for a full 10 minutes to assure death.

2. Benzocaine hydrochloride:

Benzocaine hydrochloride is similar to MS 222 and is a safe and humane method of fish euthanasia. A concentration of 250 mg per liter or more is effective for euthanasia. At this time I am uncertain of availability. Contact your Vet for more information.

3. Eugenol [Clove oil]:

Eugenol, the active ingredient in clove oil, is another sedative that when used in high doses is safe for fish euthanization. It is not approved by the American Veterinary Medical Association but is considered safe and humane by most aquarists. It can be purchased at your local pharmacy or in most health food stores. Being an oil, it does not dissolve in water. Once the oil is added to the water it must be shaken vigorously and the fish should be added immediately before the oil has the chance to separate. Doses greater than .25 ml per liter of water is adequate.

4. Decapitation:
While this can be the most difficult for the fish owner, it is considered humane and is the quickest euthanization method. Using a very sharp knife, detach the head from the spinal cord by cutting directly behind the gills. To avoid stress and discomfort associated with removal from the water, utilizing one of the above mentioned methods for anesthetization may be desirable.

Questionable Methods:

The use of Alka-Seltzer® tablets in water or high concentrations of Ethanol (AKA the Vodka Method) will cause death but it is not known to be free of pain and suffering. It is likely that these methods are humane when dosed properly. At least two tablets of Alka-Seltzer® per liter of water or 30 ml pure grain alcohol per liter of water are the appropriate doses. Because fish frequently react physically to these methods it is unknown what, if anything, they are feeling. Because of this, these methods are considered inferior to the approved methods above.

Unacceptable Methods for Fish Euthanization:

1. Freezer Method:

Dropping your fish into freezing ice water or putting them in the freezer to slowly freeze (hypothermia method) does not quietly put your fish to sleep. In cold blooded animals, it is believed that the formation of ice crystals in the tissue may create discomfort or severe pain. The hypothermia method is never ok. Rapid freezing may be applied only if the fish is deeply anesthetized prior.

2. Flushing:

Flushing your fish down the toilet is not only cruel and inhumane, but it is also illegal. Flushed fish can survive for hours or even days exposed to horrific conditions and toxic water quality. Flushing sick fish can also contaminate your local water shed with aquatic diseases. This method is never appropriate.

3. Boiling:

Dropping your fish into boiling water is painful and does not cause instantaneous death. This method is not approved.

4. Other Methods:

There are dozens of other methods for fish euthanasia circulating among the hobby that are not considered humane. The ethics of euthanasia in general are often debated. If you determine that euthanizing your aquarium fish is necessary, please only consider humane methods that remove all pain and suffering from the equasion.

American Veterinary Medical Association, “2000 Report of teh AVMA Panel on Euthanasia.”JAVMA. Vol 218, No. 5. 2001. avma.org/issues/animal_welfare/ www.avma.org/issues/animal_welfare

Christie Fournier is webmaster for Nippyfish.net Nippyfish.net; a site for the modern Betta enthusiast and Nippyfish: A Betta Blog- Betta splendens general care, illness & disease information, aquaria articles, book & product reviews and more. A place for anyone who loves Siamese Fighting Fish and the aquarium hobby.
Dr. Harms, Craig. “Euthanasia in Fish.” PetPlace.com PetPlace.com publishing date unknown. 12 Feb 2007

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Recently i felt the need in my life for a little more companionship in my life from an animal of some type.

I was then left with the decision,what animal would best suit my personal circumstances and be the best companion for me in my circumstances.
As a person who works full time i decided to opt that a dog was not suitable for me and also the animals welfare so i decided to opt for a cat instead.I was then left at the crossroads in my morals either to buy a cat from a breeder or give a stray or abandoned animal a home.

I decided to opt for a cat from an animal sanctuary which i have never looked back on since. I visited a local animal sanctuary and was shown many different abandoned or stray cats which made me sad in a way as i could only house one animal.

All the staff at the sanctuary were extremely helpful in assisting me in choosing the correct animal for me. I finally made my decision on a lovely tabby white cat which had been abandoned and had been in the home for a year.The animal had been left on a residents doorstep one night in a cardboard box and was handed into the sanctuary when found the next morning.

I was required to fill in some short documents about myself and we arranged a home visit for the home to observe my surrounding and ensure that that the animal would get a loving home.

I had the home visit which only took twenty minutes of my time and i was left the cat so we could start getting to know each other straight away.It was lovely to see the animal accustom itself to my home and get to know me and i would never do without him now.

To anyone wanting a pet i would strongly recommend giving a home to a stray or abandoned animal, read my article on my experience and see for yourself how this could be you in the same circumstances.

Adam Parsons is a full time health and safety office and in my spare time i write health related article and promote various websites.
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More and more folks are looking to the Internet to find their next cat, dog or horse. While this offers a convenient solution and broader selection outside of ones locality, it can be fraught with unseen expenses and potential heartache. It seems inevitable that buying horses online will become more the norm than the exception as the Internet grows. With that in mind, following is a short list of what one should do when looking to purchase their horse through an online source.

1. Call the seller - don’t just email. You’d be surprised at how many folks have never spoken a word with the seller until after the money changed hands.

2. Ask for a recent video. Most Internet-savvy sellers already have videos on hand and will have no problem with that request. Some sellers will not have access to a video camera, and in that case, you need to try to find someone who can go to where the horse is and check him out, or, better yet, go yourself if possible. Of course, your requirements in a horse and budget will determine if it is worth all the time and money spent making sure the horse is what you want. A $1500 animal might not warrant a $300 plane ticket plus other expenses. It would really be best to look more local for your next equine friend in that case.

3. If you seem fairly certain that the horse is for you, hire a local vet to go over and give a check to your prospective horse. If one doesn’t do anything else here, hiring a vet should be the minimum that is done when buying a horse online. Just doing the standard Coggins and general overview for transportation purposes won’t cut the mustard. Have the vet look over the teeth, eyes, hooves, muscle condition and coat condition. A horse is finely attuned to everything in and about it - if anything is wrong it usually shows up in the eyes or coat at the very minimum. Ask the vet for an objective opinion as to if the horse is sound and easy to manage. A vet chose their field because they had an extraordinary affinity towards animals - they have more skills than just their medical knowledge when it comes to animals, or in this case, horses - make use of them.

4. Ask for references for previous horse buyers from the seller. If this is a one-time sale with no other references available - then depend on a phone interview with pre-determined questions. A caring, honest seller will gladly answer your questions as well as ask you plenty too.

5. Make sure you have insurance coverage for the transport. Most commercial horse transporters will carry a certain degree of insurance to cover accidents and mishaps, however, it would behoove you to carry extra insurance on your horse, especially in the event he/she falls ill during or after the transport.

6. The very best advice is for a potential owner to make the trip themselves, inspect the horse personally, bring in a local vet for checks, and spend time communicating with the horse to assure him/her that everything will be fine once they arrive to their new home. Making the trip with your horse will help them to become accustomed to you as their one constant and will pave the way for a much smoother homecoming.

This is but a short list of what one should be looking at when buying a horse online. You may get lucky and hook up with a seller who has all of the above and more ready for your look-see, but just to be on the safe side, it’s best to know at least some of the minimums that need to be addressed. Always keep the horses well-being in mind when deciding that you just have to get that beautiful looking Paint horse who happens to be 2000 miles away. If the horse isn’t feeling 100% in the first place, and you put him through the stress of an uncomfortable long haul, you may be doing some major harm to the frightened horse that could end up being a heartbreak for all concerned.

Cris Mandelin-Wood owns several websites covering animalcities.com pets. Animal welfare issues are of special interest.

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Tags: welfare

A dog house is a great idea for your own adored pet. It is very beneficial when your dog has his or her own house whether he stays indoors or out but when you get to select the perfect dwelling place for your own dog, it just takes a lot of thinking and planning.

You have to consider where you are going to place the dog house. If it is indoor, it is best if you set it up in a corner or an area of lower-traffic in your house. It provides your dog a safe and a quiet place to relax. However, if the set-up is outdoors, you must consider the climate first. When a dog’s house is exposed to direct sunlight, it can reach extreme temperature inside that could possibly cause a serious and fatal complications to your pet but when it is in colder months it is better if the house is positioned facing away from the wind since it keeps your pet warm and reduce trips to the vet.

Deciding the type of material on how you want the dog house to be constructed is important. Plastic and metal absorbs heat and cold air causes fluctuations of temperature so this provides a less than perfect environment for your pet.

The best recommended materials for this are wood dog houses as they are known to be more extensive than plastic and metal. Added to that wood has more design add-on possibilities and it provides your dog a better protection against elements that is due to higher quality insulation. Remember to make sure there are no sharp edges that could be harmful to your dog.

Determining the size of your dog house is also significant; they feel much safer and more secure in small dog houses.

And what about having a large dog house? It will warrant excessive cold air inside during inclement weather causing the body heat around your dog to be lost. So it always is best to prepare a house for your dog that is an appropriate size for your pet’s comfort and welfare.

What also needs to be considered is the bedding where you should provide a soft surface for your pet to lie on that protects the joints from hard surfaces and it helps protects from the underside, that helps to maintain a comfortable temperature for your dog. It is best to choose something washable or has a washable cover when choosing the inside bedding. Cedar shavings are the better choice for the outside house because the oils in the cedar helps repel fleas and ticks. Using a dense, moisture-proof pad stays dry that fleas cannot penetrate it.

Make sure that your dog house comes prepared with a few added details. Some of the luxury details are more functional than lenient, like an elevated floor. It definitely enhances the appeal of the dog house but it does serve its purpose too. Choose a house that has a vent at or near the top because it permits an exchange of air which reduces humidity and fresh air circulates inside the house. Look for a house with a removable rooftop or removable bottom panels for you to clean the house easily.

Remember that your pet’s dog house is more than just a shelter, it is a cozy place to snuggle up and escape from the world, thus, safety comes as the first priority and if you are looking for dog houses visit: howtobuildadoghouse.blogspot.com/ howtobuildadoghouse.blogspot.com

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